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Routes in Waterfall Cliff
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Above the Law S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Black Dragon TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Clamydia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dendritis TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Evil Bolt Greeboo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Falls, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Leading to Death T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nausea TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oracle, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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P(iece) O(f) S(hit) Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Brad Watson (TR) 5/25/92 |
| Page Views: | 8,691 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Rezucha on Sep 17, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This route is found on the right side of the first clean face just right of the water falls. Moderate climbing to reach first bolt. Gear can be placed above this in cracks as the second bolt is quite a ways away. Above the second bolt on the left is another bolt which could be used although it's a bit tough to get to. The climb doesn't go out here as this bolt is used on a variation of the climb to the left but it does help as protection. Although the climbing eases off to 5.8, there is a long runout to the last bolt but trad gear can be placed in the crack to the right and/or a hole on the left. The last moves over the top are a surprise.
Tresa Black's Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area guide book rates this as 5.10c. As described here there is nothing harder than 5.9+, if that. The only way I can see to make this harder is to climb the thin face on the bottom just left of obvious path to the first bolt. This doesn't make sense but is fun to do.
Tresa Black's Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area guide book rates this as 5.10c. As described here there is nothing harder than 5.9+, if that. The only way I can see to make this harder is to climb the thin face on the bottom just left of obvious path to the first bolt. This doesn't make sense but is fun to do.
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