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Routes in Waterfall Cliff
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Above the Law S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Black Dragon TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Clamydia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dendritis TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Evil Bolt Greeboo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Falls, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Leading to Death T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nausea TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oracle, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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P(iece) O(f) S(hit) Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 15,372 total · 62/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Rezucha on Sep 17, 2004 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
The Falls starts 100' down directly below the observation deck on the stream bed beside two large fallen logs. This climb is actually on the left side of the waterfall and can easily be reached by walking down from the right side of the water falls climbs. The crux starts right off the ground and continues right to the first bolt 15' up. Pretty bold lead unless you are a solid 5.11 climber! The remainer of the climb eases off to 5.6 - 5.8 and meanders a bit from bolt to bolt to the top. The spacing off the bolts is quite far apart and makes for a pretty intimidating lead. Don't lose concentration until you are actually standing up on top holding onto the observation deck support bars as the last few moves are quite hard and you are about 10' above the last bolt!
Protection
6 bolts to observation deck support anchors. The first bolt is 15' off the ground with the crux about 8-10' up. The landing is not great. One could stick clip the first bolt, climb to it from the right using second bolt as protection to get to it, or clip as you rappel down. The remainder of the climb is fairly continuous 5.6 - 5.8 on runout terrain! Trad gear poor.
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