Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Dave Hatchett, Jeff McKitterick 1992
Page Views: 2,538 total · 15/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 11, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

This is the first long route that you come across heading down to the cave of the Center Wall from the north pass. It sits just to the right of three short and very overhung routes (Eye of the Beholder, Headband and Sitting Bull). At over 130 feet in length, be prepared to have someone send you up another rope to rap, or have a second bring a rope up with them.

Climbing is tough over the first overhang through the first three bolts, which lasts a mere 20 feet. From here climbing remains interesting but eases off for about 4 bolts, until some strenuous near vertical face climbing takes over for about 6 more. A welcome rest comes at the beginning of a slightly overhung flared pillar section, which ends in a runout and committing final move.

Protection

16 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Awesome route that can barely be done with a 70m rope. There was about 3 inches or rope left behind the Grigri when I got to the ground!!!! There are NO MUSSY HOOKS on this climb so be prepared untie and thread the anchor when cleaning Nov 23, 2007
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
With a 60 meter rope you can get off in 2 rappels. Either rappel or be lowered to a set of Mussy hooks on the next route over to the left(Sitting Bull?). Oct 26, 2009
mac345
Reno, Nv
 
mac345   Reno, Nv
 
this route is good for the grade and has everything, some slabby sections overhangs and good stuff right before the anchor. Also i lowered off this route from the anchors with an edelweiss 70m with about a foot of rope left so watch those ends May 14, 2014
Burlen Loring
Albany, CA
Burlen Loring   Albany, CA
5.8 finishing variation: where bolts vear right across a face, continue straight up the hand size crack. Top out on a ledge from which the anchors can be accessed. pro: singles of 1" - 2.5" cams Aug 20, 2018