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Routes in Underworld Rock

Balance Sheet T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Market Babies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drug Lord S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gestapo Priest S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair Dresser T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High on Life S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit Man S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poop Shoot S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underpass S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,251 total, 8/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 29, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Listed as a 5.9 in the Climbing Skyline Boulevard book, I think the first move of Balance Sheet is a little harder than that. After it, you have one bolt, then 50 feet of 5.3 huecos before another challenging move just above the second bolt.

Not a great route, but a decent warmup if you're here.

Protection

2 bolts for 80 feet. Some trad placements could probably supplement that in the easy (and extremely runout) section between the two bolt.

The top anchor is either the two bolts at the top of the rock or you can use the single bolt atop Underpass (just to the right) and equalize it with the tree branch right there.

Photos

Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
Agree with protection comments: if you have supplemental gear (such as cams), it's not not X. But basically it's a one move wonder with a harder move just off the ground. Pretty dirty (sandy) too... Jul 23, 2017
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
There are a couple of cam placements between the bolts. I'm not sure it even qualifies as an 'R' rated route , let alone an 'X'.

The start felt a little harder than 5.9 , and very fun. Mar 16, 2014
This would only have a protection rating of X if you did not bring some cams and slings. There are several places in the easier section to put in cams and sling hourglasses. Jan 14, 2014
Jennifer H
  5.10a X
Jennifer H  
  5.10a X
This route has a very hard start but is extremely easy afterwards. Aug 3, 2009
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
Cool first couple boulder moves! Make sure your partner spots you on the start. Used a couple tricams to protect the runout in the middle. Apr 8, 2009
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
I thought it was hard for 5.9! Sep 12, 2006