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Routes in Main Boulder

Fort Rosstafarian V6 7A
Grand Finale V9 7C
Left Arete V5 6C
Living La Vida Loca V8 7B
Living a Dream V6 7A
Living a Nightmare V7 7A+
Type: Boulder
FA: Marcos Nunez
Page Views: 2,106 total, 13/month
Shared By: drunkenmaster on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

stand start in the center of overhanging highball face or sit start (V6)

Protection

pads

Photos

Chris Olinger
Reno
  V6
Chris Olinger   Reno
  V6
vimeo.com/166677834 Sep 11, 2015
drunkenmaster
santa rosa, cali
 
drunkenmaster   santa rosa, cali
 
the sand has gone down since back in the day so the stand may be v5ish now when it is low? the sand fluctuates seasonally but overall gets lower and lower decade by decade-ish. my friends and i used to do the dyno move in our street shoes so that is maybe not that bad unless we were a lot stronger than we thought or something broke - maybe v4/5ish. the move is simply good smearing and deadpoint technique with a medium size reach - I'm 5.10 with a +3" ape but my bro who laps it too is 5.8ish. the sit has been called "the best v6 in the world" by world class climbers :)

try the fort ross triple crown where you do all the classics: "living a dream" v6 stand (was v5), "fort rosstafarian" v4 stand (or v5!?) and the "left arete" v4/5 stand all in a row in street shoes or barefoot! that is rated = rad. Jun 14, 2015
Vlad S
V7
Vlad S  
V7
This may be a V4 for a 7 foot person. However, ratings are based on an average size climber. On this problem no matter where you start the hardest move is the very reachy dyno from the jug in the middle to the obvious edge below the upper rail. This move by itself is probably V6. The other issue is that there is no obvious "stand start". Two tiny crimps can barely be reached by a tall person from folded pads, but you'd be skipping 3 relatively easy moves and still doing all the hard ones. On the other hand, it's hard to imagine starting at the jug half way up the boulder and calling it a stand start. More like a ladder-assisted cheat start. One of the most fun problems in the bay area! Jun 8, 2015