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Cosmic Wall

5.6 R, Trad, 950 ft (288 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.6 from 136 votes
FA: ??
California > Northeast Calif… > Castle Crags > Ogre aka Mt Hubris

Description

Excellent route up the East face of Mt. Hubris. The climbing stays pretty easy but is run out.

Pitch 1: 190' 5.5Start at a low point along the East face at a large pine tree below a huge right facing corner. Start out on easy ground up the corner, pass a tree continuue up the face above and belay on a good ledge with a tree.

Pitch 2: 110' 5.6Move up and right following broken rock in a dyke system. When the face nears vertical step right to a bolt anchor on a comfortable ledge.

Pitch 3: 150' 5.6 Make a tricky move just above the anchor then run it out across slabs and grooves on the face above until you reach a bolt anchor at small stance.

Pitch 4: 125' 5.4 Continue straight up the low angled face to a large ledge system below to right leaning ramp systems belay from gear.

Pitch 5: 170' 5.6Climb up the right hand ramp system to a notch and an uncomfortable belay from a small tree and an old bolt.(The left hand ramp system also looks very climable and leads to basically the same spot)

Pitch 6: 185' 5.6Traverse 25' left and climb a low angled groove with a piton. If this otion does not look fun to you go straight up the sharp arete to the summit, there is very little pro on this long pitch but the exposure off both sides of the arete is amazing!

Descent: 2 raps down NE face then follow gully down and right.

Rappel 1: 100' from bolt anchor on the summit

Rappel 2: 85' from a tree

Protection

standard rack up to 3"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

My topo of Cosmic Wall.
[Hide Photo] My topo of Cosmic Wall.
Michael Alfonso coming up the money pitch.
[Hide Photo] Michael Alfonso coming up the money pitch.
3rd belay station has only one bolt (old hanger was chopped). Girth-hitch rock bridge up and right of bolt for bomber anchor.
[Hide Photo] 3rd belay station has only one bolt (old hanger was chopped). Girth-hitch rock bridge up and right of bolt for bomber anchor.
Michael Sitzmann finishing up Pitch 5
[Hide Photo] Michael Sitzmann finishing up Pitch 5
Tree Pose on top!
[Hide Photo] Tree Pose on top!
Red circle is the 2nd belay, two people at the belay, in the circle, to give an idea of the size of the wall
[Hide Photo] Red circle is the 2nd belay, two people at the belay, in the circle, to give an idea of the size of the wall
Looking back down p6
[Hide Photo] Looking back down p6
View from top
[Hide Photo] View from top
The fun rib on the first pitch of Cosmic Wall.
[Hide Photo] The fun rib on the first pitch of Cosmic Wall.
The last pitch of Cosmic Wall, great exposure
[Hide Photo] The last pitch of Cosmic Wall, great exposure
mt. hubris summit
[Hide Photo] mt. hubris summit
Summit Bolts (bottom right) and Rap Chains (top left)
[Hide Photo] Summit Bolts (bottom right) and Rap Chains (top left)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] If one has a 70m rope one can eliminate what has been described as the 4th pitch in this description. Just clip the bolts and gain the ledge. I actually did it with a 60m, but wasn't able to get to the wall on the ledge for a comfy belay, and so just slung the sapling up there (not recommended). I believe it's worth it to eliminate this 4th pitch, though, because it's very, very short (basically a belay move), but one could not probably combine it with the fifth as it is a longer pitch.

-Adam Hicks Aug 28, 2004
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] This is a fun route! Oct 22, 2006
lars johnson
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] This a real classic! Right up there with the Matthes Crest.

I agree with AC that pitches 3 and 4 should be combined even with a little simulclimbing. Also the alternative finish is a must do. The standard finish would be a real letdown in comparison. The arete starts out about 10' wide and progressively narrows to a blade with amazing exposure. One could probably fiddle in some pro however it just doesn't seem necessary. Highly recommended, four stars. Feb 26, 2007
[Hide Comment] Combining p's 3 and 4 via some simulclimbing is NOT a great idea. The moves off of the belay at the bottom of p3 are probably the most difficult and insecure of the entire climb. Having the second do the crux of the climb where a fall might pull the leader off is not a good strategy.

On the other hand if one could combine p's 2 and 3 somehow and thus bypass the belay ledge, you'd make the climb a slightly easier by bypassing two crux moves. Simulclimbing to accomplish this would better as p2 starts out very easy and secure. Sep 7, 2007
Sam Prentice
Your Nat'l Forest
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] Done this quality route about six times. Classic moderate climbing in a stellar location. Will continue to introduce it to new climbers for years to come.

Extra beta for those in need:

There is no clear approach path, owing to the low traffic - just a maze of discontinuous user trails. Generally, stay high on the plateau (north side, along a shallow ridge) and trace you way west towards Mt Hubris. Drop south when you’re close - not before. Look for a big poderosa at the base. And dont wear shorts.

Pitch 4 (full 60m): go up a ramp (guidebook calls it a shallow chimney), past the small tree with a fixed pin, and belay from a notch.

Pitch 5 (final): pass through the notch and traverse west a short distance on the south side of the summit. A few awkward moves up a flared chimney take you to the top. Alternately, pass through the notch and move straight up the runout arete.

When belayed and protected ideally, confident leaders will find that each of the five pitches is 60m. A steep 60m rappel takes you home (can be broken into two raps with a single rope). Sep 26, 2007
Scott Becker
Medford, OR
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I love this route. Done it a bunch of times.
Some notes:
The easiest way to do the first moves on pitch three is to reverse the last moves on pitch two rather than trying to climb the thin moves directly above the anchor (this will make more sense when you're there).
Pitches 3 and 4 link fine with a 60m rope if you're comfortable belaying from the tree. Personally I like the tree better than the rusty "bolt" that is part of the previous anchor.
Do the arete/ridge finish. Jan 7, 2009
Skeates
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] This was a really fun, mellow climb - with excellent exposure. Despite the relatively run-out pitches, all of the more vertical/exposed moves were very easily protected.

We climbed this in 4 rope stretching pitches using a 70 meter rope. Unless you combine pitches 3 & 4 you will have to use gear to back-up the anchor at the top of pitch 3 since one of the (2) bolts is bad. I would highly recommend taking the left of the two "chimneys" at the base of pitch 5, since it felt like a more aesthetic line (at least to me). It gets steep, but you have tons of bomber flakes for hands and feet. Finally, the arete finish is really what makes this climb special, don't miss it! Jul 6, 2010
Paul Bernard
Chester, CA
[Hide Comment] While I agree that you can't get pro anywhere you want it on these pitches, I'm not sure I would give this an "R" rating. Nevertheless, it IS a spectacular climb.

Approach beta: Once you gain the saddle between the ogre and Castle Dome, keep going! Just as you start dropping back down the other side, watch for a climbers trail on the left that winds through the manzanita thicket. As of June 2010, it was pretty naviagable and much friendlier than bush wacking up the manzanita. If you miss it on the way up, you'll hit it on the way down (climber's descent trail) and you'll know for next time. :) That's how I found it! Oct 9, 2010
[Hide Comment] do this route! super fun. there are two bolts for the second rappel. don't really need a 3 on this route.

bring clippers for the trail and a new notepad for the summit register, it's full.

Paul wrote: "Once you gain the saddle between the ogre and Castle Dome, keep going! Just as you start dropping back down the other side, watch for a climbers trail on the left that winds through the manzanita thicket."

you don't have to start dropping down at all. go around the left side of the rock outcropping at the saddle, you'll pick up the trail. Nov 7, 2012
Chris G.
Lakewood
 
[Hide Comment] Great route with an amazing finish. Do yourself a favor and climb the last pitch arete. Holds are all there but be comfortable climbing 5.6 with huge run outs! Very fun climb Jun 17, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] LENGTH: I think the climb is about 800 feet (unless my rope is longer than what I bargained for).

PROTECTION: A single set of cams and a few small nuts (I used only one small nut) should suffice, including a 3" cam to reduce the length of a runout on pitch 3. The climb is never runout for more than 25' if you look hard for solid gear placements.

APPROACH: There seems to be a disconnected network of trails through the manzanita. We wound up taking different trails up and down, and wound up bushwhacking a short distance each time. If there is a single trail that avoids bushwhacking, good luck finding it! EDIT ON 07/30/20: There is now a complete good trail.

START: Once you reach the base of Mt. Hubris it's a short distance to the start, before you reach the lowest point of the east wall (we walked past it!). It starts at the first big tree. Having a photo of the start helps (somebody posted one here).

PITCH 1: 5.5, 175'; climb up the corner and then up and slightly left to a tree on a good ledge. Mostly 5.0-5.4 with a few 5.5 moves near the top. My partner placed 4 cams and a sling on a tree, but skipped many potential placements.

PITCH 2: 5.6, 110'; follow the broken rocks diagonally up and right between the overhangs, with a few 5.6 moves on steep sections and at the traverse (look for a good foothold down low) to the belay ledge on the right. I placed 4 cams, 6 slings on knobs, and clipped a fixed pin and a fixed cam. No runouts longer than 20'. The final traverse is well protected by a sling on a knob, which can be left in place to protect the first few moves of pitch 3.

PITCH 3: 5.6, 130'; reverse the final moves of pitch 2 and continue up the broken rocks to a single-bolt anchor (on the right) which can be backed up with a small cam. No harder than 5.5 after the first few moves. I placed 8 cams, a small nut and a sling on a knob, with no runouts longer than 25' (a 3" cam fit a shallow groove between 20-25' runouts below and above).

PITCH 4: 5.4, 115'; continue up broken rock (no harder than 5.3) to a slanting ledge with few gear belay options, then 15' of unprotected 5.6 up the right side of a triangle to a small ledge with better gear belay options. My partner placed 4 cams but skipped a few potential placements. EDIT ON 7/3/20: The tree on the left side of the ledge is a better belay station.

PITCH 5: 5.6, 150'; climb up one of the two chutes above to a class 3 gully to a notch (dropoff on both sides) with a comfortable belay and several gear belay options. I took the left chute (is the right chute easier?). I placed five cams plus a sling on a knob; the latter was the only protection on the final 15' headwall just below the class 3 gully.

PITCH 6: 5.5, 120'; climb the ridge up and right to the summit, staying slightly left of the ridge. Contrary to some comments here and elsewhere, it is well protected and easy to climb with only a few 5.5 moves. I placed 5 cams and a sling on a knob. Judging from what I've read elsewhere, the option of traversing lower to a chute is harder with poorer protection.

DESCENT: Rappel 90' from chains at summit to a tree, and 80' from rings to the gully. The gully descent is class 3 with a few class 4 sections. Sep 9, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] A video of the climb is posted here. Sep 16, 2013
[Hide Comment] I would call it a fantastic 700 to 750 foot climb, with final two pitches the highlights. A solid semi-alpine grade II. Oct 21, 2013
TomD
Medford, OR
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have anymore info on why the R rating? Apr 8, 2014
[Hide Comment] TomSOregon, I'd say the R rating comes from the first pitch and the very beginning of the third pitch. The protection improves the higher up you go and I felt well protected for the hardest moves. May 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] 3rd and 4th can be combined per everyone's suggestion with a 60m, just need to find good placement near the ledge with the sapling. (Although the ledge is large enough to walk around and relax on...) Airy ending is a MUST on the right. Totally awesome. May 14, 2014
Joe Crawford
June Lake, California
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] The 3rd and 4th pitches should be linked as the anchor mentioned in this description has had one bolt chopped, leaving the newer of the two. There is no reason to ever climb the chimney described here as the last pitch, when the awesome, run-out, exposed low-5th arete is staring you in the face. Also, there is a trail through the manzo to the base and from the descent. Follow the castle dome trail to the saddle and left of the small formation and then a few feet down hill you will start to see a cut path, it is a touch circuitous, but gets you to the base without any schwacking.

Bolts were also added to the summit, 3 glue-ins as an anchor before the chains and one about 4 feet before that. Don't know who placed them, but I had a hard time understanding why bolts were added and not just replaced. The chain anchor up top is bomber to boot. May 19, 2014
[Hide Comment] weird that someone would put glue ins up there. the rap bolts appeared fine and easy to clip from the summit.

edit: I bet the bolts are for slacklining. I've seen slackliners at the gap at lunch rock next to Castle dome last year.

I thought if there was any R it was the 20-30 feet before the first pitch beley. I didn't find any reliable protection on the slab runout. May 22, 2014
AndrewFranklin
San Fransisco
[Hide Comment] I agree, the glue-ins are poorly placed and unnecessary retro bolts. The run outs were really not that bad. I brought 10 shoulder length slings, and 2 double length . Placed a few nuts and a few cams but mostly slung solid horns/knobs every 10/15 feet. It was incredibly hot, and I would recommend stopping at Indian Springs on the way to replenish your water before continuing up the 2 mile approach. A classic, but not one I would soon repeat! So much amazing rock in this area but it is securely guarded by a solid approach. Sep 1, 2014
Floyd Hayes
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] I enjoyed climbing the route again on August 31, but near the bottom of the descent I was chased a few hundred feet by an angry swarm of yellow jackets, which stung me about 15 times. I killed most of them, so hopefully it won't happen to anybody else! Sep 3, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] The glue-ins are highline anchor bolts, not retrobolted descent anchors.

balancecommunity.com/pro-te…
balancecommunity.com/pro-te… Nov 26, 2014
Muscrat

5.6 R
[Hide Comment] I really think, having climbed this 4 times now, that class II is a little optimistic. 2+hour approach, 2+ descent, plus the rappel. I have climbed this in 2+ hours, but we simuled a lot of it. Figure a minimum of 8 hours car to car, if you know where the route starts, and you are comfy on easyR, and it is R. Fun day when the lower climbs are too hot. 2 ropes get you down in 1 rap. Dec 16, 2014
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] Really outstanding route but probably a bit intimidating for a new 5.6 leader - there are some long and spooky run-outs. Do yourself a favor and choose the ridgeline direct finish. The exposure is exhilarating and the rock is perfect - far superior to the thrash up the nasty, rubble-filled gully! For the record, the FA was by the inimitable Sir Chris Bonnington in 1979. May 24, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
[Hide Comment] I wanted to like this route so much more, given the high praise on this site, unfortunately only an average route.. one good pitch really. Sorry, this isn't a 4 star route compared to (Proper ) lovers leap /Yosemite so don't get too excited! I recommend spending the hideous hike/time driving to Tahoe! Sep 30, 2015
[Hide Comment] CrimperE2 is trying to troll everyone saying its overrated, "don't get excited," and there's only one good pitch. The proof is in the popularity, Cosmic Wall is a fantastic route that hundreds have really loved. I don't know how LL is considered any more proper, but Cosmic Wall is better than many many routes at LL (I know, I grew up there...) Oct 3, 2015
iryna yavorska
Bend, OR
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] great moderate climb, did it with a friend last weekend. I would say it's mostly 5.5-5.4 with a few 5.6 moves on pitch 2 and 5. Most dangerous moves are getting to and from pitch 2 anchors risking a factor 2 fall- pay extra attention to your steps. Other than that, it's really really easy- low angle and solid holds. Protection is sparse but you really shouldn't need much. Single rack, lots of slings and some nuts is plenty- dont bring much you wont have where to place it. If you have 70 m rope, absolutely link pitches 3-4, it's more intuitive to do so as they are on the same low angle ramp in a straight line. An anchor tree on top of pitch 4 is small - be nice to it, bring some webbing, it currently does not have an anchor on it. Go for arete finish, it's more exposed but protects really well. The hardest part of the climb is getting off of it- repel is a bit challenging when it's windy. All those lovely horns on the mountain that are nice to sling during the climb make it a pain to repel without getting your rope tangled and stuck. two of us climbed it in 2 hours and 45 min with a 2 hour approach in a very casual pace. for the approach- you have to hike all the way to Castle Dome, dont turn off sooner. Leave the trail when it starts going downhill. There are a few trails through manzanitas. Bring a pair of pants you are not sentimentally attached to, they might not make it. it was my first time in Castle Crags, the area is beautiful! So many things to climb. Oct 5, 2015
Ben Stabley
Portland, OR
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] Getting on and off the "airy step" to P2 anchors can be protected by a slung small horn slightly up and left of the bolts. Jul 18, 2016
Shaun Johnson
Pocatello Idaho
 
[Hide Comment] My girlfriend and I climbed this today in 5 PITCHES with a 60 METER ROPE. Pitches 3 and 4 can be linked up to the small tree.

Amazing climb. Aug 4, 2016
Hans Kegler
Thousand Oaks
 
[Hide Comment] Solo climbed this beautiful route while being surrounded by the parks amazing scenery. After hiking up I over shot finding the start of the climb and did a hard traversed back to the base of the climb but cut a finger on a razor sharp Crystal and it just would not stop bleeding and to say the least I was really bummed but finnaly after a bit of time stop it by packing in chalk. Took my small rack up but just used two slings on horns at the step and never used by my surprise the rope for just draged it up below me. Did my research but still was alittle worried the whole time if my rope was long enough for the rap just downed climbed a section of rock to the tree on the first rap. Was not totally safe but was no big deal it even looks like one could down climb from the vary top in good weather. Pretty neat spot the tree you rap too. One of the hardest spots is the first 15 feet of the climb very smooth. One of the best 5.6 one can do. Apr 24, 2017
[Hide Comment] This was my first trad lead, I led the first and last pitch and it was a good introduction to leading.

The only bad part is the approach that is grueling. The first day we hiked there we got lost and took us forever to find the base so we decided to go back the next day. I recorded the "correct" way and I recommend you get AllTrails and follow it, especially the part after my waypoint marked as the point where you split from the main trail. After that is super bushwhacky and I'd recommend following my trail so you won't get lost. Aug 6, 2017
[Hide Comment] Climbed it early May 2018. Partner's first multi-pitch and first time following on trad. Took us a leisurely 5 hours up. Don't bother with anything bigger than a BD #2 cam. This thing sucks up medium nuts and medium cams in the .4-.75 range. Lots and lots of horns to sling. Definitely missed the bolt on pitch 3. Definitely do the arete/fin finishing pitch. And uhh, there's a reason why other commenters have said to bring pants for the approach/deproach. May 23, 2018
old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] what an awesome route. easy, really fun climbing. approach is pretty low key - if you find the climber's trail through the manzanita there is NO bushwhacking! route crux is getting to the anchor on top of p2 and leaving that anchor to start p3(4). we simulclimbed briefly w. a 70m rope to link p3 and p4. left gully for p5. so, about that old 1/4" leeper for the p5 belay? i actually belayed off a couple of horns/cams at a better stance just a few feet up. the p6 ridge is awesome and quite protectable, can't imagine not climbing that... May 31, 2018
Jason Hardrath
Klamath Falls, OR
 
[Hide Comment] On 11-12-18,
Went Car-to-car in 2:13:52
Free solo of Cosmic Wall went up in 32:07

The moves bypassing the bolted anchors at the top of what would be p3 feel pretty airy off-pro... Of course, I took the ridge for the final pitch, such an epic feeling.

I think the car to car can go in 90 minutes.
And the FS on the route at least 10min faster.

Data to support is here.
strava.com/activities/19613…

Also here.
fastestknowntime.com/route/…

(Please, if you or anyone has gone faster post it up with data)

(Also, have climbed this in 4 pitches on a 70m and in 3 pitches on an 80m.)

IG: @jasonhardrath Nov 13, 2018
Jesse N
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] One of the better 5.6 multipitches around for sure. Soloed this route this morning in trail runners and had a delightful climb. It was exactly as good as anticipated. Sustained easy climbing with solid rock and mostly lower angle climbing. There were however a couple airy moves where I wished I was wearing rock shoes, so I'd defintely recommend them. Route finding is pretty obvious once you're on the climb. I was unsure about the downclimb at first, but it turned out to be totally do able. Went down where the rappel goes and it was probably 5.6 although it felt like 5.7 since it was I suck at Down-climbing. Finding the route wasn't too hard, but it helped to compare it to the start pictures that folks have posted. The hike in wasn't bad at all (as long as you're used to a little hiking), just sustained moderate uphill for 3 miles or so. May 7, 2019
sabina
oakland, ca
[Hide Comment] Reiterating that pitches 3 and 4 can be linked with a 60m rope, from the bolted anchor at the bottom of 3 to the small tree at the end of 4. The summit pitch was as wild as everyone said it was!

Also, as others have implied, the approach route finding has gotten much easier - just don't miss the climber's trail to the left at the end of the wash-out gravel and you're good. I suspect the "bush whacking" through the manzanita has gotten much friendlier in recent years; thank you to those responsible for doing an amazing job with trail maintenance! May 13, 2019
[Hide Comment] Fun climb that is well worth the hike up when there are clear skies since the views are amazing. Do not miss the Indian Spring especially if it's hot, it's all of a 3-5 minute detour that is well worth it and makes it so you can bring less water. I did it solo in 4'07" with high 80's and being on the wrong trail for about 10 minutes. Route finding is very easy, you just follow the path of least resistance.

Someone put in 3 nice slightly overkill glue-ins at the summit near the rap anchors. Jun 16, 2019
Jay Bird
Marin, CA
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] I really don’t see why this climb is getting such good reviews. The last 2 pitches are mediocre at best. The rest below that is even worse. When I did it the route was filled with people who could barely lead 5.6. If that is your limit I would suggest NOT trying lead this climb as most of it is very runout. Even where you can place pro on the lower pitches they are not good placements. IMO this is not worth the approach hike in. Sep 20, 2019
Winston Mueller
Klamath Falls, OR
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] Cool route, ran it in 4 pitches with a 70m and some simul-climbing to finish off the "airy" arete finish. route didn't hold the exposure I thought it would, the whole left side of the finishing ridge is far less exposed than it looks, although the thin features on the arete and the exposure off the right side are cool. Not sure where you would protect with anything bigger than a #1, recommend small cams, maybe aliens, not a great lead for confidence if learning to place gear IMO. Gear placements are pretty thin all over, but the climbing is very easy. Everyone should do this once and make up their own mind. Castle Crags State Park never disappoints with the beauty and breath taking scenery. Mar 4, 2020
[Hide Comment] I think the height of this route needs to be update. theCrag lists it as 790 feet. I think whoever made the descriptions here has pitch 4 wrong, cause if you linked 3 + 4 it equals 200'. How can you get a total of 275 feet (both pitches) and be able to link with a 60m? Just sayin. Jun 5, 2020
Winston Mueller
Klamath Falls, OR
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] Climbed this yet again yesterday. Some insights for the first timers that are looking for some more beta, I'll try not to spoil the experience.. If anything I suggest is off, shoot me straight.

Pitch 1 - (5.4) Very mellow and straight forward climbing, slim opportunity for placing gear. Belay from small conifer on good ledge.
Pitch 2 - (5.6) Simply low angle slab with no placements for the first few moves off the belay. Steeper and very featured climbing for the rest of the pitch. Very fun climbing, slim gear placement aside from slinging features before the last section where there are a few small but good cam placements. (.3-.5, I think I placed a yellow alien). Sling a horn and negotiate the detached block to the right where you will find your first bolted anchor.
Pitch 3 - (5.4) Like Scott B states somewhere in this comment thread it is easier to reverse the last 2 moves of pitch 2 and climb left of the belay than to smear the blank slab directly above anchors. These moves feel very committing but are easy enough for the grade. IMO totally un-protectable for most of the pitch. Easy climbing nonetheless. Heres where the route gets abstract.. As I understand it there is a two bolt anchor somewhere to the left of the dike that serves as the belay for the top of pitch 3. What I found was a single bolt/hanger, and a hanger less bolt. By clipping the bolt and continuing 30 feet or so leader can gain a small ledge (up/left) with a somewhat sturdy conifer to belay from. (Rope drag is heinous. Might be a rope stretcher with a 60m.)
Pitch 4 - (5.5) As I understand the 4th pitch is the move from the now nonexistent 2 bolt anchor to the ledge with the small tree.
Pitch 5 - (5.6) Moves up and left from the ledge with the tree with some 5.6 moves and follows the gully into a low angle scramble ascending to the left side of the high ridge proper. (Protection is slim in the gully but doesn't feel necessary as the exposure is far less during this pitch)
Pitch 6 - (5.6 )From the top of the gully climb up and slightly right to the obvious spine of the ridge. Initially there are several bomber horns to sling for protection before the proper spine of the ridge feels somewhat less sturdy. This is as I like to say where the "grand exposure" begins as the climbers right side of the ridge falls away into the floor of the park. Continue to the summit proper where there are two sets of glue-ins (high-line anchors), and a 3 bolt rap station with chains.

Option that I prefer for the summit (I believe this is what is described in the route description of pitch 6) is to instead of continuing up the gully as described in pitch 5, move the belay from the small tree, 30 feet or so across the ledge (right) with a short scramble to belay from an even smaller conifer. This gives a slightly more difficult straight shot up a presumable 5.7-5.8 gully with some interesting moves and some good but runout cam placements before climbing over a root, clipping an old school bolt, and either belaying from a tight notch (you'll know when you get here) or fully running the summit ridge in a single pitch (I think this requires a 70m rope). Feel free to DM with questions about this variation or just anything in general as this area is becoming pretty familiar to me.

Possible to run this in 4 pitches with a short sumil-climb at the top if your skills are proficient and you haul a 70m rope up.

Rap off the NE spire from the bolted station to a ledge with another set of rap rings and a large tree. Second rap takes you behind some cool flake features and lands up in the descent gully. Aug 2, 2020