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Trad, 950 ft (288 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.6 from 136
> Northeast Calif…
> Castle Crags
> Ogre aka Mt Hubris
Excellent route up the East face of Mt. Hubris. The climbing stays pretty easy but is run out.
Pitch 1: 190' 5.5Start at a low point along the East face at a large pine tree below a huge right facing corner. Start out on easy ground up the corner, pass a tree continuue up the face above and belay on a good ledge with a tree.
Pitch 2: 110' 5.6Move up and right following broken rock in a dyke system. When the face nears vertical step right to a bolt anchor on a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 3: 150' 5.6 Make a tricky move just above the anchor then run it out across slabs and grooves on the face above until you reach a bolt anchor at small stance.
Pitch 4: 125' 5.4 Continue straight up the low angled face to a large ledge system below to right leaning ramp systems belay from gear.
Pitch 5: 170' 5.6Climb up the right hand ramp system to a notch and an uncomfortable belay from a small tree and an old bolt.(The left hand ramp system also looks very climable and leads to basically the same spot)
Pitch 6: 185' 5.6Traverse 25' left and climb a low angled groove with a piton. If this otion does not look fun to you go straight up the sharp arete to the summit, there is very little pro on this long pitch but the exposure off both sides of the arete is amazing!
Descent: 2 raps down NE face then follow gully down and right.