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Routes in Peanut Gallery, The

A Face in the Crowd T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bluff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolt Run S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Change UP T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coronoid Process T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eyes of Silver S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finger Grafitti S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Free Falling S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Heckler, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Ages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratchin' Nails TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shootout T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Tumbling Turmoil S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witchy Poo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Richardson, Malcolm Jolly 1997.
Page Views: 574 total, 3/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on May 7, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

The right-most climb on the main slab section of the Peanut Gallery, Eyes of Silver is the least steep of the lot and the least featured - true slab climbing.

The second pitch is shorter, steeper, easier and more featured and only really deserves 1 star.

Protection

pitch 1: 4 bolts to 2 boltspitch 2: 2 bolts.

Rappel off each pitch from the chains on Bolt Run.

The higher portion of the route is a bit runout, but the climbing is much easier as well.

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Gordy Ainsleigh
Auburn, California
 
Gordy Ainsleigh   Auburn, California
 
Back when I was young (42-45) and climbing a lot (1990-92), I met my friend Patrick and his two children here, and set up a top rope so we could play on the first pitches of Eyes of Silver and adjacent Middle Ages. I got into seeing how fast I could do Eyes of Silver, and eventually did two runs to the top in 26 and 28 seconds. Pat told me afterward that his 9-year-old Valerie, who weighed maybe 90 pounds to my 200, gave up on the belay device and was just pulling the rope in hand-over-hand. It's a very fun climb to do over and over, faster and faster. You might want to have two belayers, though, because, if you get fast, there may not be time to use a belay device. Aug 11, 2017
Adal Bermann
San Diego, California
  5.10b/c R
Adal Bermann   San Diego, California
  5.10b/c R
Way nicer than Bolt Run in my opinion. At least there were some features to work with. May 10, 2014
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.10b/c PG13
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.10b/c PG13
Despite the star rating given on this route, it is not only my favorite on the crag, but one of my favorites at Donner. But then again I love slab climbing most of all. If you like this kind of slab you will love the first pitch. Second pitch has some fun moves of the deck and then cools out after ten feet or so. As to the protection, I don't want to be a contrarian, but other than the first move off the deck it is right where you need it. I don't know for sure, but it feels like it was bolted from the ground up, and since it was here, and the bolts looked a little oxidized when I started climbing in '95, I am guessing it went up in the late 80's not 90's. If you like the slab climbs at Grouse Slabs you will like this route! Jun 13, 2012
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Another slab! Sep 25, 2006