Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Jay Sell, Brock Berry 1996
Page Views: 1,404 total · 8/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 8, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This is the highest route that you can reach on the base at The Distillery Wall without moving up the 3rd class hillside. Look for three closely placed bolts on a vertical face that tops out onto a small ramp that starts at ground level on the right side of a dirt patch in the middle of The Distillery Wall.

Climb the first 3 bolts, being really careful with the second bolt if you're not over 6', or move past to the jug before clipping. Top out on the ramp, move up through some vertical climbing, and then plow into roughly 70' of sustained crimpy, pumpy, almost footless, slightly overhung, awesome climbing.

Make sure you have someone follow you on a 60M or longer rope, as the route is about 105' long. Cleaning is a bitch otherwise due to the route moving to the left near the top and its length.

Protection

14 (yes, 14) bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor shared with Moonshine (5.10c).

Photos

426
 
426  
 
Watch those rope ends, you MUST go into the gully if you have a short (60m or less) rope!!! Apr 20, 2008
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11c/d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11c/d
The description above is really nice and this is an amazing route, however I would add a couple of things that I think are a bit misleading and could put folks off. First, you definitely don't need someone to second this route to clean it. You can clean while lowering with relative ease, even without the need to trolley the rope. Second, the climbing is rather sustained, but not at the 5.11 level (there are two relatively short sections), and there are lots of big feet at many stances to stand on, thus this is a great route at the grade if you can muster the opening moves. Superb route. Enjoy.

EDIT: Just did this route again and as far as 426's post above...you do not need to lower into the gully with a 60m rope. Watch your ends, but a 60m rope puts you down (with a few feet to spare) at the start of the route. Also, after watching several friends climb this route, I would say that it is probably closer to 11d than to 11c. Outstanding route. Jun 21, 2009
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
I think maybe our group has always cheated the first 3 bolts as we move way right on much easier ground and clip the bolts by leaning way left. If you stay right on the bolt line it looks pretty hard, maybe even harder than 11c. I don't know if there is a 11c section once you get above the first few bolts. It is an excellent climb as others have said just like all the others on this wall. What is the opinion of others on the first section? Sep 26, 2010
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Really cool route. I did it both by going onto the ramp after the third bolt and by going straight up to the ledge. It's definitely harder going straight up, but it didn't seem 11c. I thought the upper section was much harder, but more due to pumpiness and hard-to-read rock than to a standout crux. Don't try to onsight this route at around 2pm in the summer! The sun being right in your eyes will make the route even harder to read!! Jun 14, 2016
Haleigh Scott
  5.11c
Haleigh Scott  
  5.11c
60 meter rope takes you to the ground with no issues. If you go right and up the ramp you are definitely off route. There is a clear and stellar line following the bolts that is at grade and going around the corner to the choss is definitely not the route. Nov 5, 2018