PRINT: Rock Climb Granted, Sonora Pass Highway (108)

Granted

5.9, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 109 votes
FA: unknown
California > Sonora Pass Hig… > Table Mountain > Grotto

Access Issue: Agreement in place at Gold Wall. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Update: April, 16 2021.

Gold Wall (which is privately owned) is open to climbing.
However climbers must follow the owners rules!

Rules for climbing at Gold Wall:
-No yelling/loud noises
-No fires of any kind
-No camping
-No trash/bathroom
-No publishing routes in books or online (ie Don't post on Mountain Project or other online sites)
-No disclosing exact location in books/online

The land owners continue to have full rights over the Gold Wall and the right to close access at any time if activities occur that make them uncomfortable. We are very thankful to the land owners who recognize the importance of Gold Wall to the climbing community and generously have allowed rock climbing to occur on their property.

Access Fund is working with Tuolumne County, Tuolumne County Land Trust, private landowners and the US Bureau of Reclamation to come up with a solution to the Shell Rd parking issue. Please be mindful of where you park when going to Table Mountain, do not block private driveways or vehicle access on Shell Rd and remember this area is a high fire danger zone so use abundance of caution!
It is up to us as a climbing community to ensure the owner’s rules are upheld so please if you see something say something!!

Description

Note: This climb is no longer a 5.9 to the anchors since something broke on the face climb above the columns. Crack is still 5.9 and then the boulder finish is ~5.10b 2 bolts to the anchors.

This Crack sits just below the terraces on the left of the grotto, and uses a crack that gets quite large about 20 feet up. Sitting on the leftside of a column, this is just left of Hole in the Wall (5.10a), which sits on the front of the column.

Climb up the crack using fists, fingers, your forearms and whatever else you can use for hands while feet are available both in the crack and out. After the large section of crack, the rock splits, and climbing is easy. Move right once out of the crack system, where you'll find the upper bolt of Hole in the Wall a convenient clip. Finish using the shared anchors above the bolts.

Protection

Gear to 3", though you'll be fine if you leave things over 2" on the ground. 2 bolts protect the route above the crack, and the 2 bolt anchor is shared with Hole in the Wall (5.10a).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Switching gears from Trad to Sport to get to the anchors.
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Photo by Dalton Johnson
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@seek_shangri_la
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www.daltonjohnsonmedia.com

Switching gears from Trad to Sport to get to the anchors. Photo by Dalton Johnson @seek_shangri_la www.daltonjohnsonmedia.com

Hard to get a good photo on account of the trees.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Will M.
Oakland

Really fun and easy jamming. Can stem on the left if you need to rest. Apr 27, 2011

Johnny Y
California

Was climbing this route a few months ago and we heard some high pitched chirping around the crack to the left, it didn't occur to me back then but now I am suspecting a bat may be living in there. Keep your ears open before placing those handjams! Mar 26, 2013

Ken R
Sunnyvale, CA

5.8

This is my favorite crack at The Grotto. The jams feel more solid to me than either Bandito or Table Manners. Takes 3 #2 Camalots, plus a #1 and a 0.75. Oct 26, 2015

Alex Lloyd
Bozeman, MT

5.8

Great handcrack with maybe one fist-sized move. No stemming necessary. I found the face climbing up top a bit harder than the crack itself. Singles from .75-3, a sling or two, and 3 draws will get you up! Mar 5, 2017

Perry Doig
San Francisco, CA

Onsighted this today not realizing it called for sport draws after the column runs out. I was still able to protect the bulge and the face moves just fine with a few small cams (black and blue totems and a blue Alien). No need to make this a mixed route. The protection was more than adequate. Fun little 5.9. Nov 17, 2020

ElGreco

Wondering whether some rock has broken off this route as described here? As of May 2022, the sport section above the crack/pillar seemed substantially tougher than anything below to me. My partner, who has climbed this before, also did not remember a crux at the first bolt above the pillar. I am certainly no hardman, and could have been doing it all wrong - but it felt like a grunt for a 5.9 to me! May 27, 2022

Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA

I also think something broke at the 1st bolt. It feels around 10c now. May 31, 2022

Ricky Harline
Angel's Camp, CA

Some of the most straight forward jamming found on any crack anywhere. Somewhat physical but the crack is technically dead easy. Great for crack beginners.

I lead the face above the crack, and I don't lead 10c. Leaving the pillar there is a small edge you can stand on, and above that is a steep, disgusting smear you can use to get higher and reach either an intermediate crimp or if you're tall go right to a jug.

It's incredibly well protected, so go for it! Mar 15, 2024