PRINT: Rock Climb Three Fingered Jack, Sonora Pass Highway (108)

Three Fingered Jack

5.10b, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3 from 121 votes
FA: unknown
California > Sonora Pass Hig… > Table Mountain > Grotto

Access Issue: Agreement in place at Gold Wall. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Update: April, 16 2021.

Gold Wall (which is privately owned) is open to climbing.
However climbers must follow the owners rules!

Rules for climbing at Gold Wall:
-No yelling/loud noises
-No fires of any kind
-No camping
-No trash/bathroom
-No publishing routes in books or online (ie Don't post on Mountain Project or other online sites)
-No disclosing exact location in books/online

The land owners continue to have full rights over the Gold Wall and the right to close access at any time if activities occur that make them uncomfortable. We are very thankful to the land owners who recognize the importance of Gold Wall to the climbing community and generously have allowed rock climbing to occur on their property.

Access Fund is working with Tuolumne County, Tuolumne County Land Trust, private landowners and the US Bureau of Reclamation to come up with a solution to the Shell Rd parking issue. Please be mindful of where you park when going to Table Mountain, do not block private driveways or vehicle access on Shell Rd and remember this area is a high fire danger zone so use abundance of caution!
It is up to us as a climbing community to ensure the owner’s rules are upheld so please if you see something say something!!

Description

This route climbs up a crack system on the mid- left side, and is the crack just left of the dihedral to roof route called Snake Byte (5.11b). It can be indentified as a single crack on the ground, which turns into a system of two cracks about 20 feet off the ground, and then turns into a 3 crack system about 40 feet up.

The crux is either the lower crack, or the middle double crack section, depending on how big your hands are.

All protection is solid on this route, and there is almost always a good lock just where you need it.

Protection

Gear to 1 1/2" in the bottom 2/3 of the route, and anything goes up top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Michael Doty cruisin up Three Fingered Jack!

Three Fingered Jack

Photo by Dalton Johnson
<br>
@seek_shangri_la
<br>
www.daltonjohnsonmedia.com

Photo by Dalton Johnson @seek_shangri_la www.daltonjohnsonmedia.com

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.10b

Great route with good gear. A nice warmup for Rawhide. Nov 25, 2006

tallmark515

Cool... nothing too challenging, as long as you're proficient with finger locks. Apr 2, 2009

danielwhore

Agree that it felt soft for 5.10b - the 5.10a just to the left of this was more a strenuous lead in my opinion. Good stances for placing gear at the start, wasn't ever worried about protecting the opening moves. Very cool finger locks going through the top half of the route - highly recommended! Oct 23, 2011

Latvian climber

5.10b

Agree that Hole in the Wall felt harder. This route has so many horizontal breaks that you can use first as jugs for your hands and then shelves for your feet once you get on top of them. The abundance of rests makes it soft at .10b. I only used one #1 Camalot on this and nothing bigger. Some really cool fingerlocks where it splits into a trident. Jan 2, 2019

Jason Pirolo
San Francisco

really fun! Great one to learn how to sink into a variety of finger jam variations. Abundant gear and rest stances. Agree that if felt soft @10b Nov 13, 2022