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Routes in Midwall

Calamine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funny Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 280 total · 2/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

This less climbed route features beta intensive but excellent moves up a face just right of a large curved arete. A committing move above the first bolt puts you out on the face of the route, which then moves up and left on gently overhung rock. Continue up to a crux just below the first pair of bolts, or continue on to the second anchor (140' up) where another crux section meets you before the anchors.

The BAD part of this route is that you cannot avoid the large poison oak shrubs that surround the route during your decent, and they are hard to avoid on the way up. Maybe this route should be named Technu instead?

This is the leftmost route on the Mid Wall, easily indentified by walking up the hill from the 3 other climbs on the mid-wall and looking for the only route with a bolt on the rock before the overhung bulge that turns into an arete a little further up and left.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, or continue on to the second anchor using a total of 14 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. The second anchor is about 140' up.

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