Kalumete Arete, AKA: Big Chief Arete
Avg: 3 from 11 votes
|Type:||Sport, 120 ft|
|FA:||Worsfold & Richardson (trad+pins), 1988. Bolted variation start added by Hatchett & McKitterick, 1992|
|Page Views:||4,089 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Sep 26, 2003|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionTodd Worsfold & Dick Ridchardson did an original line in 1998 on gear and pins several years before the rest of the crag was developed. The name of that line, at the time was Kalumete Arete. Dave Hatchett and Jeff & McKitterick added a bolted start named their variation "Big Cheif Arete" in 1992. I do not know exactly how much the bolted line deviates from the original line of gear and pins.
regardless, this was the best line I got on at the cliff, and the tallest. From the notch of the north pass, come down past the first major formation of dihedrals and aretes to the second formation, there you will pass an arete of considerable height. There are two routes on or near it, the left-most being 'Headrush' (1-move 10+) and the right most being Big Chief Arete. B.C.A. climbs up and right past bolts though various facets of face, dihedral, overhang, and slab and then curves back left toward the top of Headrush, passing within clipping distance of the anchors of it at about 80-90 feet up. This can serve as an alternate belay/rappel unless you have 15 draws and 2 ropes (a 60m rope doesn't even come close).The climbing to this anchor is probably 5.10b or c. Beyond this anchor, moving up and right you will see a bolt, and a placement for a 1" cam (can be nice). The moves to pass this section are long reaches from underclings and a so-so hand jam in a flaring crack/slot while moving right through the overhang (5.11a) and onto the face above. Clip a few more bolts on the face to reach the anchor above.
Rap with 2 ropes, or in 2 raps, or *possibly* with a 70M, with caution.
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