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Routes in Center Wall

All Guns Blazing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bird of Prey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blazing Buckets S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Early Bird TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eat the Worm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamethrower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Force Feed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funambulist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Hornet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Rush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kalumete Arete, AKA: Big Chief Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mohawk S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Falcon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Shark S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Peace Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peace Pipe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pow Wow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raindance S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Stealers From Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Bull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Scalper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toilet Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Too Light to Wait S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Chawsome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trail of Tears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Travail Buttress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wampum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Paint S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War Path S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wicked Quickie S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Witch Doctor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Worsfold & Richardson (trad+pins), 1988. Bolted variation start added by Hatchett & McKitterick, 1992
Page Views: 4,089 total · 23/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 26, 2003 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Todd Worsfold & Dick Ridchardson did an original line in 1998 on gear and pins several years before the rest of the crag was developed. The name of that line, at the time was Kalumete Arete. Dave Hatchett and Jeff & McKitterick added a bolted start named their variation "Big Cheif Arete" in 1992. I do not know exactly how much the bolted line deviates from the original line of gear and pins.

regardless, this was the best line I got on at the cliff, and the tallest. From the notch of the north pass, come down past the first major formation of dihedrals and aretes to the second formation, there you will pass an arete of considerable height. There are two routes on or near it, the left-most being 'Headrush' (1-move 10+) and the right most being Big Chief Arete. B.C.A. climbs up and right past bolts though various facets of face, dihedral, overhang, and slab and then curves back left toward the top of Headrush, passing within clipping distance of the anchors of it at about 80-90 feet up. This can serve as an alternate belay/rappel unless you have 15 draws and 2 ropes (a 60m rope doesn't even come close).The climbing to this anchor is probably 5.10b or c. Beyond this anchor, moving up and right you will see a bolt, and a placement for a 1" cam (can be nice). The moves to pass this section are long reaches from underclings and a so-so hand jam in a flaring crack/slot while moving right through the overhang (5.11a) and onto the face above. Clip a few more bolts on the face to reach the anchor above.

Rap with 2 ropes, or in 2 raps, or *possibly* with a 70M, with caution.

Protection

About 15 QDs if done as one pitch. If stopping at the anchors of Headrush to belay, 10. Either way, haveing a few longer slings is a good idea, as the route and line of bolts is not always direct. a 1" TCU can add pro right at the crux and make the climbing less heady.

Photos

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There are two starts: The left is the original (protected by gear and pins) was first done in 1988 by Worsfold and Dick Richardson.It was named Kalumete Arete and appears in Carville's 1991 Guide as such. The right hand start is a bolted sport start, which was added later. Yes, it is one of the longest lines (besides Copper Feather) and also one of the earliest (other than "Day Hike", done years earlier), Adding an alternate, bolted start does not warrant re-naming it and changing FA creds. 7 days ago
adam14113
San Francisco, CA
adam14113   San Francisco, CA
Awesome climb. Was able to do it with a 70 meter ... and I stress the word barely. My friend had to walk up the hill next to the wall to get me on the ground, be sure to tie a knot in the end of the rope. With the rope stretch gone doing a top rope with a 70 isn't possible. Jul 18, 2010

More About Kalumete Arete, AKA: Big Chief Arete

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