Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in Center Wall
|All Guns Blazing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Big Chief Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Bird of Prey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Blazing Buckets S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Early Bird TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Eat the Worm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Flamethrower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Force Feed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Funambulist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Green Hornet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Head Rush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Killer Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Lost Souls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Mohawk S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Mud Falcon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mud Shark S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Peace Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Peace Pipe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Pow Wow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Raindance S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Route Stealers From Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Running Bull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R|
|Scalper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Toilet Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Too Light to Wait S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Totally Chawsome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Trail of Tears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Travail Buttress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Wampum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|War Paint S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|War Path S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Wicked Quickie S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Witch Doctor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 110 ft|
|Page Views:||127 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Sep 26, 2003|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionWow. Just to the climber's left of the big dihedrals of the center wall, left on Big Chief are 2 bolted face climbs, Flame Thrower (10d, right) and Running Bull (11c, left). Do these climbs in the AM, while they are shaded.
Running Bull starts weird right off the ground, and get weirder as you go. Go up and clip the first bolt, the head up and right to the next bolt, coming down to remove the first draw unless you clipped it with a 2' sling to avoid rope-drag.Continue up and right, then back a little left past perhaps 4 or 5 more bolts to reach a tricky 5.10+ crux just below a lower angle section to a ledge, which is just below a slick light face. Continue up the slick white face past a few 5.11 moves to the second bolt on that section, then to the true crux of the route (5.11+) which is just plain HARD in the heat/sun. The shallow holds, tiny feet, slopers and sharp pockets will take their toll regardless, but don't make it harder!
After the real crux, getting past the next clip (difficult clip) then up and left, the climbing eases up for a bit, passing another clip or two to the anchors.
You can lower off with a 70M rope, but certainly not with a 60M.
Sustained and pumpy. Maybe harder than 11c; It felt like 5.12. Definately leagues harder than any other 11 I did in the Tahoe area, and the only route I tried that I couldn't on-sight. It felt harder than several "5.12's" I've done in other areas lately.
Full disclosure: I yarded on a draw to clip, then to inspect a hold.
- No Photos -