Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 196 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 26, 2003 with updates from Todd Worsfold
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Wow. Just to the climber's left of the big dihedrals of the center wall, left on Big Chief are 2 bolted face climbs, Flame Thrower (10d, left ) and Running Bull (11c, right). Do these climbs in the AM, while they are shaded.

Running Bull starts weird right off the ground, and get weirder as you go. Go up and clip the first bolt, the head up and right to the next bolt, coming down to remove the first draw unless you clipped it with a 2' sling to avoid rope-drag. (These issues have been addressed)Continue up and right, then back a little left past perhaps 4 or 5 more bolts to reach a tricky 5.10+ crux just below a lower angle section to a ledge, which is just below a slick light face. Continue up the slick white face past a few 5.11 moves to the second bolt on that section, then to the true crux of the route (5.11+) which is just plain HARD in the heat/sun. The shallow holds, tiny feet, slopers and sharp pockets will take their toll regardless, but don't make it harder!

After the real crux, getting past the next clip (difficult clip) then up and left, the climbing eases up for a bit, passing another clip or two to the anchors.

You can lower off with a 70M rope, but certainly not with a 60M.

Sustained and pumpy. Maybe harder than 11c; It felt like 5.12. Definately leagues harder than any other 11 I did in the Tahoe area, and the only route I tried that I couldn't on-sight. It felt harder than several "5.12's" I've done in other areas lately.

Full disclosure: I yarded on a draw to clip, then to inspect a hold.

Protection

about 15 draws to a bolted anchor.Some of the clips are very hard to make.

Photos

- No Photos -
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
It appears that the 2nd and maybe 3rd hangers are gone from this route. It is not too difficult in those sections and so running it out is not too bad but just thought I would note that.

I agree with the posters assessment that this route is, at a minimum, solid for the grade. Oct 26, 2009
"It appears that the 2nd and maybe 3rd hangers are gone from this route."

I did this route yesterday and yeah, the 2nd hanger is definitely gone, and either the 3rd or 4th, I don't remember which. What's up with that? For the 3rd/4th, the bolt was still there and looked solid, but no hanger. I think it may have even had a nut on it. Did someone intentionally remove the hanger? Or was it damaged or something? We saw the same thing on the 2nd bolt on a climb in the oven--weird.

The lichen on the rock makes running it out not very fun. I ended up traversing left, clipping, traversing right, clipping, then going back and unclipping the left bolt. Sep 4, 2012
Todd Worsfold
San Francisco, CA
 
Todd Worsfold   San Francisco, CA
 
FA Todd Worsfold, sometime in the late 80's I will be back this summer to retro bolt and deal with the missing hangers (?!) Feb 10, 2018
Todd Worsfold
San Francisco, CA
 
Todd Worsfold   San Francisco, CA
 
I just returned and fixed the bolt issues. Apparently someone added a new first bolt slightly "off route", and removed hangers from two others. This has been fixed. basically start in the left facing corner on easy ground to clip the first bolt, then up through more easy terrain past the second and third bolt. Climbing then gets a lot more difficult and the last few clips are sustained, thin and pumpy. It was originally rated 11c but I would say it's harder. Also note that Flamethrower is to the LEFT and Running Bull is to the RIGHT. Jul 8, 2018