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Routes in Center Wall

All Guns Blazing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Big Chief Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bird of Prey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blazing Buckets S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Early Bird TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eat the Worm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamethrower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Force Feed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funambulist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Hornet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Rush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mohawk S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Falcon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Shark S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Peace Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peace Pipe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pow Wow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raindance S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Stealers From Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Bull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Scalper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toilet Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Too Light to Wait S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Chawsome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trail of Tears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Travail Buttress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wampum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Paint S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War Path S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wicked Quickie S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Witch Doctor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 127 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Wow. Just to the climber's left of the big dihedrals of the center wall, left on Big Chief are 2 bolted face climbs, Flame Thrower (10d, right) and Running Bull (11c, left). Do these climbs in the AM, while they are shaded.

Running Bull starts weird right off the ground, and get weirder as you go. Go up and clip the first bolt, the head up and right to the next bolt, coming down to remove the first draw unless you clipped it with a 2' sling to avoid rope-drag.Continue up and right, then back a little left past perhaps 4 or 5 more bolts to reach a tricky 5.10+ crux just below a lower angle section to a ledge, which is just below a slick light face. Continue up the slick white face past a few 5.11 moves to the second bolt on that section, then to the true crux of the route (5.11+) which is just plain HARD in the heat/sun. The shallow holds, tiny feet, slopers and sharp pockets will take their toll regardless, but don't make it harder!

After the real crux, getting past the next clip (difficult clip) then up and left, the climbing eases up for a bit, passing another clip or two to the anchors.

You can lower off with a 70M rope, but certainly not with a 60M.

Sustained and pumpy. Maybe harder than 11c; It felt like 5.12. Definately leagues harder than any other 11 I did in the Tahoe area, and the only route I tried that I couldn't on-sight. It felt harder than several "5.12's" I've done in other areas lately.

Full disclosure: I yarded on a draw to clip, then to inspect a hold.

Protection

about 15 draws to a bolted anchor.Some of the clips are very hard to make.

Photos

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"It appears that the 2nd and maybe 3rd hangers are gone from this route."

I did this route yesterday and yeah, the 2nd hanger is definitely gone, and either the 3rd or 4th, I don't remember which. What's up with that? For the 3rd/4th, the bolt was still there and looked solid, but no hanger. I think it may have even had a nut on it. Did someone intentionally remove the hanger? Or was it damaged or something? We saw the same thing on the 2nd bolt on a climb in the oven--weird.

The lichen on the rock makes running it out not very fun. I ended up traversing left, clipping, traversing right, clipping, then going back and unclipping the left bolt. Sep 4, 2012
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
It appears that the 2nd and maybe 3rd hangers are gone from this route. It is not too difficult in those sections and so running it out is not too bad but just thought I would note that.

I agree with the posters assessment that this route is, at a minimum, solid for the grade. Oct 26, 2009