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Routes in South Face of Sentinel Rock

Sea Biscuit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sea Serpent S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swashbuckler S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Marcos
Page Views: 526 total, 3/month
Shared By: drunkenmaster on Jul 31, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Excellent stemming corner.Shares the first bolt with Sea Biscuit and heads up and right to the corner.

Protection

5 bolts to anchor.

Photos

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Nandulal Thibeault
Ca
  5.10c
Nandulal Thibeault   Ca
  5.10c
I did swashbuckler 5/15/2017. Fantastic climb! Fun and varied moves. Bolts are well-placed and well-spaced. Someone took the hangers off the anchor. I spent a half hour making knot chocks out of slings to build an anchor, so please allow me to vent about self-righteous ethics wieners. If you chop bolts or anchors, stop, it's not all about YOU.

People are more likely to do something stupid or more dangerous than they had intended when they are expecting an anchor and they don't find one. Such as building a bad anchor or rapping off something sketchy.

Bring finger/hand sized gear and long slings to make anchor, or replace the hangers. They are 1/2" bolts, only proud of the rock about a half inch.

The stem box is technical and requires some advanced smearing technique, but I think a solid Yosemite 5.10 climber can pull this off if they think it through.
May 15, 2017
whipp
  5.11a
whipp  
  5.11a
Ohh yeahyou can chck out the opening moves by looking at Sea Biscuit ( same start) the it moves right Jul 27, 2004
whipp
  5.11a
whipp  
  5.11a
I was lucky enough to get the second ascent on this killer bouldery/stemming fest after Marcos Nunez put it up last year and ohhh shiiii ...it's sweeeeet. A wild start( harder if your short like myself,5'7) v3First you gotta get on the sucker.Watch the water and don't slip, that could kinda suck balls. Lean out onto wall and lunge for first hold, JUG, clip first bolt. Then the fingery and boulder prob starts( crux) traverse to corner and get your rests. Oh and chalk your feet. heheThis climb is worth the drive aloneWhen Swash was put up I was asked what I thought the grade was and I said 10d / 11a. On subsequent trips with equalclimbing ability partners, the grade is solid 11a but I hesitate at the 11b grade. Enjoy!!whipp Jul 27, 2004