PRINT: Rock Climb Hushed Passage, Lover's Leap

Hushed Passage

5.10c, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 14 votes
FA: (TR) Dave Schultz, FL: Unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Dear John Buttress

Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning Details

ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress

There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.

We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.

Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.

Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)

Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org

Description

The easiest way to indentify this route is to look for an arete that abrubtly ends in a 6' deep ledge 30 feet off the ground, that has bolts just to the left of it.

The top anchors sit a ways back and right from this route, so top roping is probably not a good idea.

Climb up the arete starting on the right side, and moving over to the left face after the first tough move, which is before the first bolt and definately the crux. This is a very wingspan dependant move that will pull you up to a decent ledge where the rest of the ledge looks great, but isn't.

Once clipped into the first bolt the climbing gets simpler, but not easy until after the second bolt.

Once on the ramp, the top anchor is found to the right in the small cave, and requires a 5.6 travese move to reach from the ledge.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, which is shared with the middle bolts of God of Thunder (5.11b/c). Stick clip the first bolt and you can remove the "S" rating.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Most of hushed passage, the top anchors are just out of view on the left side of the picture.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom

No need for an "R" rating. It's a sport route. Jun 6, 2007

tallmark515

I started on the face near the start of Rehab and traversed the dikes to the right over to the first bolt of Hushed Passage. Safer this way, but not .10c and most likely not the actual start of this route. I finished up on the second half of rehab so fortunately the route was still challenging.

Next time I'll have to try out the correct opening moves of Hushed Passage. Jun 28, 2009

Scott Stevenson
SLC, UT

5.10d

This route would be much better if chains were directly at the top. The traverse makes it near impossible to clean and does nothing but distract from how good the lower part is. Also there’s a piton on the ramp which makes committing past the last bolt a bit more comforting. Jun 8, 2020