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Routes in Center Wall

All Guns Blazing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Big Chief Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bird of Prey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blazing Buckets S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Early Bird TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eat the Worm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamethrower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Force Feed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funambulist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Hornet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Rush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mohawk S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Falcon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Shark S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Peace Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peace Pipe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pow Wow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raindance S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Stealers From Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Bull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Scalper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toilet Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Too Light to Wait S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Chawsome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trail of Tears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Travail Buttress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wampum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Paint S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War Path S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wicked Quickie S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Witch Doctor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Dave Hatchett and Jeff McKitterick, 1993
Page Views: 2,118 total, 12/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 30, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the furthest right route on the Center Wall at Big Chief.

Use caution if you bring up Carville's book and count routes from a landmark, as a new (er) route has been put in just to the left of this route. The easiest way to indentify this 150' (use 2 ropes or find an interesting way to rappell off) route is by the initial slab leading left to a small roof over which the climb seems to dissappear from the base just behind and right of a large rock (25 feet high) that protrudes as a great sitting spot. The other way is to look for the Copper Feather, which hovers above this route.

Climb up over 3 small roofs and two slight variations. The crux heading over the first roof, which is slightly overhung is a 5.9 move.The second roof has two variations, going right which makes the route a 5.9, and going left, which makes the route a 5.9+. Climbing is runout on the top slab, but probably only 5.1. One more vertical section leads you to the top anchors, which are also the belay anchors for climbs headed up the challenging Copper Feather, and are both low end 5.12's.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. This is 150' feet long, so use two ropes if you don't want to doulbe rappell using a lower bolt.

Photos

MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.9
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.9
Or you can just do what any normal human should do, and bring two ropes for the rap. May 28, 2015
Jake R.
Truckee, California
  5.9-
Jake R.   Truckee, California
  5.9-
super fun route for sure. I think its the 8th or so bolt up but theres a hanger on that bolt you can use to rap off, for a double rappel. Jun 26, 2014