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Routes in Center Wall

All Guns Blazing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bird of Prey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blazing Buckets S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Early Bird TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eat the Worm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamethrower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Force Feed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funambulist S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Hornet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Rush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kalumete Arete, AKA: Big Chief Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Bee S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lost Souls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mohawk S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Falcon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Shark S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Peace Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peace Pipe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pow Wow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raindance S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Stealers From Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Bull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Scalper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toilet Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Too Light to Wait S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Chawsome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trail of Tears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Travail Buttress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wampum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Paint S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War Path S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wicked Quickie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Witch Doctor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Hatchett and Jeff McKitterick, 1993
Page Views: 2,296 total · 13/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 30, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up over 3 small roofs and two slight variations. The crux heading over the first roof, which is slightly overhung is a 5.9 move. The second roof has two variations, going right which makes the route a 5.9, and going left, which makes the route a 5.9+.

This route was originally an approach pitch to the Gold Wall, with a long section of run-out, but very easy (low 5th class) climbing to the top anchors. Lower-off anchors have been added at the start of the slab - you can now rappel from the Gold Wall anchors with a single rope (2 rappels), or climb the vertical section of Toilet Earth (80' to lower-off anchors) and avoid the slab.

Protection

8 bolts, 80' to intermediate anchors, or 12 bolts, 150' to top anchor.

Location

This is the furthest right route on the Center Wall at Big Chief.

The easiest way to indentify this route is by the initial slab leading left to a small roof over which the climb seems to dissappear from the base just behind and right of a large rock (25 feet high) that protrudes as a great sitting spot. The other way is to look for the Copper Feather and the Gold Wall, which hovers above this route.

Photos

Jake R.
Truckee, California
  5.9-
Jake R.   Truckee, California
  5.9-
super fun route for sure. I think its the 8th or so bolt up but theres a hanger on that bolt you can use to rap off, for a double rappel. Jun 26, 2014
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.9
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.9
Or you can just do what any normal human should do, and bring two ropes for the rap. May 28, 2015

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