Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Hatchett and Jeff McKitterick, 1993
Page Views: 2,341 total · 13/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 30, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Climb up over 3 small roofs and two slight variations. The crux heading over the first roof, which is slightly overhung is a 5.9 move. The second roof has two variations, going right which makes the route a 5.9, and going left, which makes the route a 5.9+.

This route was originally an approach pitch to the Gold Wall, with a long section of run-out, but very easy (low 5th class) climbing to the top anchors. Lower-off anchors have been added at the start of the slab - you can now rappel from the Gold Wall anchors with a single rope (2 rappels), or climb the vertical section of Toilet Earth (80' to lower-off anchors) and avoid the slab.

Protection

8 bolts, 80' to intermediate anchors, or 12 bolts, 150' to top anchor.

Location

This is the furthest right route on the Center Wall at Big Chief.

The easiest way to indentify this route is by the initial slab leading left to a small roof over which the climb seems to dissappear from the base just behind and right of a large rock (25 feet high) that protrudes as a great sitting spot. The other way is to look for the Copper Feather and the Gold Wall, which hovers above this route.

Photos

Jake R.
Truckee, California
  5.9-
Jake R.   Truckee, California
  5.9-
super fun route for sure. I think its the 8th or so bolt up but theres a hanger on that bolt you can use to rap off, for a double rappel. Jun 26, 2014
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.9
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.9
Or you can just do what any normal human should do, and bring two ropes for the rap. May 28, 2015