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War Paint

5.9, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 2.7 from 119 votes
FA: unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > Truckee River C… > Big Chief Area > Center Wall

Description

This route ascends a vertcal face, that leads to a slab, and then back up the vertical face on the rightside of the less overhung cave, and just before the corner that hides viewing of the routes around it from inside the very overhung cave.

Two sections are sustained 5.9 climbing, though it's very well protected.Fun moves challenging using almost every vertical 5.9 move there is, except offwidth (which I don't like anyways!)

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I'm 95% sure you need to climb it first, given that most of the routes in the canyon don't go all the way to the top of the cliff. I'm going there Monday, so I'll update this comment when I get back. Jul 15, 2007
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Scrambling along the top is doable - If you're willing to set up some top anchors and rappel down a pitch, after climbing up the other side! This isn't doable.

I'd forgotten about the sheer magnitude of the area; many routes here could easily be multiple pitches, I think it's simply the base area (and subsequent rockfall) that deterred the Hatchett brothers et al from running most routes multi-pitch. Second pitches on most routes would create a blind nasty rain of rock down onto people in the base area. Aug 28, 2007
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] The first hanger on this route has been removed. The good news is that the climbing remains ~5.7 until the after you clip 2nd bolt. Sep 14, 2011
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
[Hide Comment] It's 5.1 to the second bolt. First bolt not needed at all.... Sep 16, 2012
Chandler Heppe
Nevada City, CA
 
[Hide Comment] fun longish climb to warm up on and get the blood flowing in the forearms, lots of really nice handholds and slightly overhung in places. Jan 4, 2014
[Hide Comment] Sun and more sun after noon. Good climbing. Only 5.9 part seemed to be getting by the corner/bulge near the top. Aug 26, 2015