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Raindance

5.12a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 52 votes
FA: Dave and Mike Hatchett, Rob Lovelace
California > Lake Tahoe > Truckee River C… > Big Chief Area > Center Wall

Description

This route is in the less overhung (comparitively) cave in the center section of the Big Chief center area. It's still really overhung, but not as much as the other overhung area about 150 feet uphill and left. This route is 5 routes to the left of War Paint (5.9), which always has people on it in the mornings. It also shares the first bolt with the overhung and very juggy Mohawk, which moves up and right, while Raindance moves straight up.

Sustained overhang has an excellent section to the first bolt, and then a serverely overhung, balancy and tough crux moving from the third bolt to the fourth bolt. From the fourth bolt on, expect sustained 5.11a or tougher reaches to huge jugs, until a crimpy and balancy interesting clip into the top anchors.

Badass.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

in the crux
[Hide Photo] in the crux
pulling the crux section
[Hide Photo] pulling the crux section
Raindance from below, with bolts.  The first bolt is shared with Mohawk (5.10b).
[Hide Photo] Raindance from below, with bolts. The first bolt is shared with Mohawk (5.10b).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

426
[Hide Comment] I remember this (vaguesly) as a one move wonder...tall guy and short guy beta differ quite a bit... Mar 12, 2007
Stonebhikku
boulder, co
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] very much a one move wonder as far as the technical crux goes,
But hang on tight for pumpy jug climbing all the way to the anchors.

Great fun Dec 28, 2014
R Rod
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Very awesome line!! Different beta for different heights! Jun 27, 2016
Jskierpx
Truckee, CA
[Hide Comment] Super fun boulder problem down low with juggy overhanging goodness above. Fight the pump. Get on it Jun 26, 2019
David Shane
Torino, IT
 
[Hide Comment] My first 5.12 on lead. The well protected crux after the third bolt is very fun and can be a power move or compression move (your height will limit your options). Fight the pump thru the 5.11 climbing above. Clipping the anchors is tricky. Aug 4, 2020
Brennan VanDyke
Edmond, OK
 
[Hide Comment] Too short and too much of a one move wonder to be classic, but definitely an interesting crux.

Beta:

I'm 6 foot and at the crux I did a big move with my left hand in the small crack/crimp on the left side of the dihedral, reaching all the way up to the right hand sloping jug thing that was all chalked up. Felt pretty big and pretty hard. Jun 3, 2021