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Routes in Underworld Rock

Balance Sheet T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Market Babies S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drug Lord S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gestapo Priest S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair Dresser T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High on Life S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit Man S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poop Shoot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underpass S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,997 total · 16/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 3, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Climb up the holed cave section just around the corner from the southeast face.

Climbing is interesting for the first 25 feet, using the giant holes as leverage and then exiting out to a slopey move that is the crux just after the third bolt. Continue up the arete to the top anchors, and lower or walk off.

Protection

6 bolts to the shared 2 bolt top anchor on the top of The Underworld. Bring a couple of slings for the first two bolts, as rope drag can be quite bad on your rope without them.

The slight runout to the 4th bolt can be protected with some small cams or nuts.

Photos

Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
The block in the crack beneath the first bolt is moving. If you pull hard on it it will probably come out. I recommend starting a bit to the left in order to avoid a potentially painful breakage. Aug 30, 2004
Blitzo  
Scary! Sep 12, 2006
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
Cool boulder moves at the start Apr 8, 2009
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, California
 
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, California
 
The slight runout to the 4th bolt can be protected with some small cams or nuts. Jan 31, 2015
Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
I think in different guidebooks this route has 3 different variations depending on where you start. Basically, 10c is when you avoid the direct start by going right (inside the cave). If you go directly (starting under the bulge), that's 11a (also called Poop Shoot direct). If you go left of the bulge, that's 10d. Jul 23, 2017
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
FA: Brad Watson, 1992 Jan 11, 2018

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