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Routes in Underworld Rock

Balance Sheet T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Market Babies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drug Lord S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gestapo Priest S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair Dresser T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High on Life S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit Man S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poop Shoot S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underpass S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,528 total, 20/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 3, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

On the severly long and pockety southest face, climb the left side of the slab. Climbing begins in a flakey crack system and then heads directly up the left side of the face. Climbing is simple until the first bolt is reached, which is about 15 feet from the top. Once clipped in, a committing handless slab smear will scare the hell out of a 5.9 leader. The long move is fun, but climbing on the route other than that doesn't get this route any more stars.

Protection

1 bolt about 55 feet off the ground. There are several places where cam placements are good, but not required. The lone bolt serves as protection for the crux, and other climbing on the route is probably 5.3, with the exception fo the first 2 moves.

Photos

Crux move right off the ground and then again at the very top. Lots of easy pocketed slab climbing in between. I recommend top roping off the 2 bolts on the top. Both seem to be in good shape. Feb 4, 2017
RR
RR  
Guy. T. B., I lead this awhile ago, however, I stayed to the right since the left side of the slab is pretty mossy. Led hair dresser today (route to the right) and they felt very similar (minus the beginning). You can place gear behind some flakes (don't remember what size) but it sounds hollow and will probably break off with a fall from above. Unless you're comfortable with runout, I would recommend TR. Mar 21, 2015
Guy T. B.
Santa Cruz, California
Guy T. B.   Santa Cruz, California
Does anyone have more detailed gear beta? Specifically what size pro does this take? Jan 20, 2015
Michael Turner 1
San Francisco, California
 
Michael Turner 1   San Francisco, California
 
Super Fun! Nov 26, 2014
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
A nice moderate route . Fun pockets with a tenuous little slab finish at the top. Worth doing. Mar 16, 2014
Jennifer H
  5.9-
Jennifer H  
  5.9-
Great warmup route. Practically a ladder. Aug 3, 2009
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Fun route. Scary solo. Sep 12, 2006