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Routes in Underworld Rock

Balance Sheet T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Market Babies S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drug Lord S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gestapo Priest S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair Dresser T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High on Life S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit Man S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poop Shoot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underpass S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,220 total · 7/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 3, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details


This is located on the leftside arete as you climb uphill from the large cave that sits on the southwest face of The Underworld. Climb up the arete finding a 5.10 face move after the third bolt. Before this bolt and after this move the climbing is considerably simpler. For a direct start, begin around the corner on the left using a single bolt on the leftside face to the arete, which sits about 12 feet off the ground on this side. An excellent scary traverse move will bring you over to the arete and the third bolt of the arete.


5 bolts to the shared top anchors on the top of The Underworld. The direct start is 4 bolts to the top, and it is a good idea to clip the second bolt as a directional is you're going to do the direct start.


Direct Start (Left Side of Arete) is rated 5.11A. If you keep climbing left side of the 1st bolt of the direct start using flakes, I felt rating is not hard (maybe 5.10). I also went up from the right side of the 1st bolt directly going up the arete using slopers. This move is more fun and a bit scary, and maybe 11A (but not so hard once you know the move). Which every you choose to go, you almost feel like skipping the 2nd bolt (which is the 3d bolt of the 10C start). Aug 23, 2004
An OK route. Sep 12, 2006
Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
I probably don't know what is the exact line here as if you follow the bolts, it seems that it's significantly harder that 10c Jul 23, 2017

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