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Routes in Chew Tooth

Center Route S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hand Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Uncle Fred's Vacation Plan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: Dimitri Barton, 1990
Page Views: 1,809 total, 10/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 3, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Climb the center smooth section of the rock, which goes upto a large round jug. If you "cheat" in from the left usingan excellent balancy move, and then pull the balancy mantle,the route is 5.11d and gets two stars. If you dyno up tothe large jug, and then pull the mantle, the route is anexcellent 5.12a. Continue up to the top of the rock, whereone more slightly tough move awaits.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Bring a 6' sling if you want to top rope this route. The top bolts are on top of the rock, which is easily accessed from the path.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
An important looking hold seems to have broken on this one. It's the one the guy's left hand is on in the beta photo submitted by Bruce Morris. This appears to have happened some time ago, and by the looks of it, someone made a (failed) effort to glue the hold back on.

Despite this, the route may still go. I couldn't pull it off but that certainly doesn't mean that one of you hard-persons couldn't do it.

Or it may be that this hold has been broken for a while and the hold in question was of little or no value. Jan 16, 2010
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
Dimitri Barton did the FA of this route in 1990. Aug 23, 2006