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Routes in Chew Tooth

Center Route S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hand Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Uncle Fred's Vacation Plan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: Dimitri Barton, 1990
Page Views: 311 total · 2/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 3, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Climb the bolted featured bulge on the right side of the Chew Tooth. This leads up a vertical section that quickly becomes slabby. The crux is definitely up the first 10 feet.

Instead of cheating in from the left side, the direct approach goes straight up to the jug on the corner. This goes at .11a.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt top anchor. Access for atop rope is simply to walk to the top of the rock,where you will find these bolts on the left side (looking down). A crashpad would be nice for the boulder start, which goes at 5.11a.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
 
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
 
This route may only be 30 feet tall, but it's 30 feet of continuously excellent climbing. I did the 5.11a start, which I thought was great, but it may be frustrating for shorter people. A crash pad / stick clip is definitely optional as the landing is perfect.

I'm not entirely sure, but I think the 10a start involves making a move or two way out left from the first bolt (possibly in the crack?), so a pad or a stick clip may be more warranted for that case. Jan 15, 2010
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Nice one, Dementri! Sep 12, 2006
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
Dimitri Barton did the FA of this route solo in 1990. The bolts were added (with DB's permission) a short while later. Aug 23, 2006