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Routes in Memorial Wall

BMW Traverse V3 6A
Community Chest S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kirk Arens ArĂȘte S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On Demand S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quirky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Term Memory S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sneaky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,610 total · 9/month
Shared By: Toshi Takeuchi on Apr 5, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Leftmost, and the easiest, route on Memorial Wall. Probably 5.6 on first ascent, but lost holds since that time, and the easiest choices of holds being loose on some moves, have made a bit harder.

Taking the risk of lost holds due to crumbling and not so great fall line into account, a solid 5.8 climber is recommended to lead this route.

Protection

6 bolts to Mussy anchors.

Photos

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
  5.6
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
  5.6
I agree that you should be a 5.8 or so lead climber to climb this route. The current crux is going to fall, and soon. I don't want to be the person climbingit when it goes... Other than that, this is decent for a 5.6, and still makes agreat warmup.

Cleaning up Jun 30, 2003
Rough
 
Rough  
 
This route is now rebolted and ready for business as of yesterday. Thanks to my wife Brenda for belaying me on lead to re-establish the route and the ASCA for providing the bolts to replace the ones that were chopped! Oct 21, 2012
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
  5.7+
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
  5.7+
Safely and thoroughly bolted six times, walked our friend through her first sport lead on this. New Mussy hook anchor at the top. Jan 14, 2013
Leo Ramirez  
 
I saw a couple of large rocks fall from a group climbing this route on 1/18/13. This was my last and least favorite route at the quarry. It seemed harder than 5.6. Be careful with this one since the rock seemed kind of unstable. Jan 23, 2013
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.8-
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.8-
Felt more like 5.8, at least if you avoid using the several loose jugs, which I think is probably recommended. Still very well bolted and safe despite the choss. Make sure your belayer stands well to the right while belaying. Still a nice re-addition to The Quarry, thanks for you efforts Rough. Apr 20, 2013
Eric L
Roseville, CA
  5.7+
Eric L   Roseville, CA
  5.7+
First bolt tightened. Snugged, then quarter turn. Take a wrench with you and always check the routes here... Lots of traffic. Was a good first lead with all the anchors. Feels higher than 5.6 - more like 5.8 at the crux due to loose and missing jugs. Watch the hold/rock on the ledge under the anchors, it's getting ready to come off. Feb 22, 2015
Nathan Z
Sacramento, CA
 
Nathan Z   Sacramento, CA
 
I don't know if I was wiggling the same jugs as Aron in 2003, but this route is still chossy as hell and would be a poor choice for a new climber or new leader. I recommend testing every hand and foot hold before weighting it. Feb 1, 2018

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