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Farewell to Arms
5.10b, TR, 40 ft,
Avg: 2.7 from 106 votes
California > San Francisco B… > Berkeley > Cragmont Park > Southeast Face
This route is to the left of the cave route, and may be the best climb at Cragmont. Go up to the large flake where the route becomes overhanging. Climb into the cave and up to the anchors.
There are bolts at the top of the route to place top rope anchors. Although it is not that steep, a belay from a tree above down to the anchors is highly recommended.
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Justin at the first crux move. The second is at the very top.
Farewell To Arms - Great climb and aptly named
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The hardest .10a I've ever climbed, but this little route is wonderful. The rating has got to be a sandbag.
Jul 7, 2003
went here for the first time yesterday. delicious. since my footwork wasn't great, I ended up pulling myself through a lot of moves and strained my right bicep. be careful!
*climbers before me left a yellow daisy chain. if that's you, go back there & you'll see it hanging from the fencepost next to the outhouse.
May 31, 2005
San Francisco, CA
such a wonderful climb for a LITERAL backyard crag - bummer its not bolted. VERY sandbagged for .10a though
Jun 7, 2011
All you need to setup on this is 4 locking beeners and a single 2-3 foot sling and you can connect to the two anchor bolts up top. I think 10a is fair. The first half is maybe a 5.9 if you go the left along the crack (or go straight up the face and its a 10a the whole way. The last part going into and coming out of the little "cave" above the ledge can be a bit of a challenge, a 5.10a+. I've climbed here a number of times, I don't think the girls have never made it passed the first half (even when heading to the left). I've made it all the way up a few times, but if its the end of the day the second half, into and out of the cave, is tough for me.
Jun 14, 2012
There are 3 bolts now, whoever placed them could have placed one more bolt and done a little bit better on the placement. There are 3 glue-ins and the first hanger on the 11b is highly recommended as a first, even then don't fall between the 1st and 2nd bolt, hanger and glue-in, it will not be pleasant. As far as grade, sandbagged is safe to say. 5.9 maybe 5.10a to the cave, but getting past the cave maybe 5.10a+ but topping out is definitely not 5.10a, more like 5.10b or perhaps 5.10c.
Jul 5, 2012
Jim Thornberg recently decided that he should bolt this, very unnecessary. The locations of the bolts are poor and its likely that a fall would result in injury. It's long been a toprope, I have no idea why this was bolted and I imagine that they will soon be removed..
Aug 25, 2012
The bolts are in pretty bad places so that you'll hit the ledge if you fall from pretty much anywhere before the last bolt. Also, they were a really weird kind of bolts that I had never seen before. There was no actual bolt, just one piece of steel that went into the rock and acted as the bolt and the hangar. I would not recommend leading this route. It was a really fun TR though.
Aug 19, 2013
One more bolt has been added to the face below the ledge, kinda changing the dynamic of the route. The bolts used are wave bolts, they're glue-ins and pretty bomber stainless steal bolts, I've used them elsewhere. Unless someone wants to go through the arduous effort of sawing off all four bolts, I doubt they will be removed. Personally I have nothing against making it possible to lead, I don't value top-rope climbs that much, just think the bolts could have been placed better.
If you do the moves on the face avoiding the lie-back to the left below the ledge , I'd say it goes at 10d if you're less than 6' tall along with topping-out the anchors.
Sep 3, 2013
as a 5 foot 4 inches person i had always had a hard time going over the face of the flake and would always revert to liebacking the left, but i finally discovered it IS possible (at least for me) with a foot switch and small dyno when you are on the undercling and flailing for the top of the flake.
May 11, 2015
I thought the route was great. It has a lot of different interesting holds/features for such a short one. Bolt placement was..okay. Glue in wave bolts are very strong and sustainable glad to see them used and set properly. I think 10b or 10c is fair - Definitely the best route at the crag and a fun lead!
May 8, 2016
Really fun route with a hard finish! It's pretty cool have a lead climb like this so close to home here in Berkeley.
May 20, 2018
careful of dusty dirt on the topout.. I took I surprising fall while trying to grab what would have been sweet slopers. If you are really worried one could sweep off the top
Aug 26, 2018
Fun and really hard, the rating is totally sandbagged
Mar 24, 2019
The bolts are in fine locations, just seek out your clipping stances and have a conscious belayer. Yes, they are glue-ins and more bomber than the wedge bolts used around. The first bolt (I believe placed later) was placed poorly, they did not use enough glue to fill the hole. I’ve placed a few hundred of those bolts, and know they take more glue than the average glue-in. Probably fine, but still... use proper glue technique...
Jun 20, 2019