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Routes in Main Rock

Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Nancy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sharky's Machine TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Eric Brand and Jeff Dopp, mid 1980s
Page Views: 4,260 total · 22/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the corner on the main face of Mickey's Beach's North Face. This route is the second bolted route from the left, and climbs the slab up into the corner.

The section before the first bolt it quite run out but not too difficult, and the section after the last bolt is also.

There are always people on this route, so don't anticipate being able to warm up on it without having to wait a little bit!

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.10b
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.10b
Just returned to try and lead some of the routes I toproped about a month ago. The 3 bolts on this route are spaced close enough to be safe but far enough apart to make it pretty exciting! This really is a good route. Doesn't look it from the ground but there are some great moves to figure out! May 12, 2003
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.10b
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.10b
A very fun variation of the Corner Route is the Corner Route without the Corner. Simply climb the Corner Route from the ground to top without using any holds in the corner seam or anything to the left of the corner seam.This route could probably be led quite safely using the 3 bolts of Corner Route as the harder moves are very close to the second and third bolts. Start a bit right of the easy Corner Route start. Easier climbing gets you up to the first bolt and then you will find a few difficult, balancy face moves to get up to the downward facing flake. From the flake, easier ground gets you to the top. This variation seems almost as hard as Slab Route so it may be 11a/b.

A further variation is heading up right of this route by several feet. Once gaining a good stance where Walkin' A Thin Line bears right about 15 off of the ground, climb straight up reaching an obvious 4 in by 16 in ledge. From this go straight up. I haven't finished this yet as it blanks out but I think it will go. Nov 14, 2005
Brad Allender
Alameda, CA
  5.10a
Brad Allender   Alameda, CA
  5.10a
Just for info, the main handhold at the crux just past the second bolt is really loose.Its been loose since i first climbed there 5 years ago, but this time it seemed to shift about half an inch to the left. Be careful. Nov 14, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.10b
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.10b
Had a fun day up at the Main Rock yesterday. Been awhile... Saw that lots of chalk was on the variation I mentioned above that goes up about 6-7' right of the actual corner of Corner Route. Turns out to be a bunch of VERY thin moves (using tiny feet instead of hard crimpy hands) all the way to topping out. Probably 11a or so. Fun to do since you probably have a TR setup anyway. Jun 11, 2006
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I've tried several variations too. One that is cool with a TR is to start Walkin A Thin Line and then go into the Corner Route. That way you get a little more length as well as cutting out the simplistic start. Also, that flexing hold is still hanging on. I've been leading it without that hold because I know it's gonna pop off one of these days anyway. Actually, while seeming really good, it is a sucker hold because you want to go left at that point. That's my take. Aug 2, 2006
Jeff Dopp
Goodlettsville, TN
Jeff Dopp   Goodlettsville, TN
Eric Brand and I bolted this route around the same time that we did Walkin a Thin Line (mid 80s). Nov 12, 2009
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
Good moves the whole way up. Led it then realized it can easily be set up as a top rope from above. May 25, 2015

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