Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,006 total · 5/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 15, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details


Climb up the initial easy overhung face to the prominent smooth overhang. The top anchor is in view above.

The top overhang is definately the crux, hands get real small and footing becomes slippery. Originally rated 5.11a, this is not an .11a. If you're under 6', this route will feel even tougher.


5 bolts to a 3 bolt top anchor.


Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
Is this the route that has no hangers, just a line of studs going up the wall? Apr 23, 2013
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
well there is one bolt, the 2nd but yes the rest are just the bolts without hangers, bring some small nuts and hang them on those suckers and it should be a spicy lead! Apr 24, 2013
Yeah, I would strongly suggest not trying to lead it in it's current state. It is called On Demand because it has some crytpic and "slick" beta. I used to get people telling me all the time, no way that thing is 11a. I would float it and say, "There ya go On Demand. :)"

I hate the fact that I can't get out there and do more work. I have seriously screwed my knee up and most likely will need more surgeries, but I really need to get out there and "fix" up the Memorial Wall. Apr 24, 2013
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
i hope my comment about leading it was taken as sarcasm, also to add there is is only one hanger at the anchor!

Condition Update!!!
as of 4/27/13 all bolts are back, thank you so much aaron! Apr 24, 2013
Hey Ben,

Next time I will hacksaw them off. I didn't bring one the day I rebolted it, but will next time. May 6, 2013
Latvian climber
Latvian climber  
The bolting is awesome and highly appreciated due to the three ledges present on the route. I took many falls on this route, all of them safe except for a sideways fall due to some stupid beta on my part. Jan 26, 2014
Cave Man McElroy   auburn
Just curious about clipping the anchor... Are you supposed to mantle the very upper ledge (the one directly bellow the anchors)? for little added ending spice? or are the chains just not hanging low enough to clip easily from the ledge? May 7, 2014
There have never been chain anchors on this route. The mantle at the end is part of the route and the fun! May 8, 2014