Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Memorial Wall

BMW Traverse V3 6A
Community Chest S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kirk Arens Arête S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On Demand S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quirky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Term Memory S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sneaky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 883 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 15, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Climb up the initial easy overhung face to the prominent smooth overhang. The top anchor is in view above.

The top overhang is definately the crux, hands get real small and footing becomes slippery. Originally rated 5.11a, this is not an .11a. If you're under 6', this route will feel even tougher.

Protection

5 bolts to a 3 bolt top anchor.

Photos

Rough
 
Rough  
 
There have never been chain anchors on this route. The mantle at the end is part of the route and the fun! May 8, 2014
Cave Man McElroy   auburn
Just curious about clipping the anchor... Are you supposed to mantle the very upper ledge (the one directly bellow the anchors)? for little added ending spice? or are the chains just not hanging low enough to clip easily from the ledge? May 7, 2014
Julian Bobilev
  5.11c
Julian Bobilev  
  5.11c
The bolting is awesome and highly appreciated due to the three ledges present on the route. I took many falls on this route, all of them safe except for a sideways fall due to some stupid beta on my part. Jan 26, 2014
Rough
 
Rough  
 
Hey Ben,

Next time I will hacksaw them off. I didn't bring one the day I rebolted it, but will next time. May 6, 2013
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
i hope my comment about leading it was taken as sarcasm, also to add there is is only one hanger at the anchor!

Condition Update!!!
as of 4/27/13 all bolts are back, thank you so much aaron! Apr 24, 2013
Rough
 
Rough  
 
Yeah, I would strongly suggest not trying to lead it in it's current state. It is called On Demand because it has some crytpic and "slick" beta. I used to get people telling me all the time, no way that thing is 11a. I would float it and say, "There ya go On Demand. :)"

I hate the fact that I can't get out there and do more work. I have seriously screwed my knee up and most likely will need more surgeries, but I really need to get out there and "fix" up the Memorial Wall. Apr 24, 2013
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
well there is one bolt, the 2nd but yes the rest are just the bolts without hangers, bring some small nuts and hang them on those suckers and it should be a spicy lead! Apr 24, 2013
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
Is this the route that has no hangers, just a line of studs going up the wall? Apr 23, 2013