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Routes in Memorial Wall

BMW Traverse V3 6A
Community Chest S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kirk Arens Arête S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On Demand S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quirky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Term Memory S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sneaky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Steve Fettke & Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,292 total, 7/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 13, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

This route climbs up from the previously existing plaque on the Memorial Wall. Climb up the large blocks and jugs over an overhanging section to the juggy slab above. Sustained, but not too tough for a 5.9 climber.

This is second route from the left on the Memorial wall.

Protection

3 bolts to a 3 bolt top anchor.

Photos

GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
 
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
 
UPDATE: not sure when, but the 1st bolt is back and looks great.
Thanks Auburn stewards! Aug 23, 2017
Rough
 
Rough  
 
Gizzard, 1st bolts have a tendency to get torque constantly due to people standing far away from the wall while belaying or moving around while the belayer has the leader under tension or from short high impact falls on the first bolt. The result of this is a slow loosening of the bolt stud from the wedge cone by counter rotation. You literally unscrewed it defeating its mechanical purpose.

In the future, you are better off just hand tightening a few turns and letting the internet know then completely loosening / removing it. The concern now is that if you don't "straight shot" the nut when you try to "fix it", you will inadvertently rotate the wedge nut that is in the bottom of that hole in a manner that won't allow the stud to ever be screwed back in.

The other concern is that you may "think" you got it in the nut when in reality you are just screwing the threads of the stud into a constriction of the rock or metal expansion sleeve. Think about it like a hole just slightly smaller than the diameter of the stud. You can "screw" the bolt into it and it will feel like it it is snug when in reality a direct outward pull will show a VERY low pull out strength since it is the thin metal flanges of the threads holding the bolt into the rock/metal sleeve not the actual expansion nut and sleeve.

When you are inserting the stud back into the hole, do not push aggressively or try to pound it in in any way. Slide the stud in the hole and if it gets hung up, slowly and lightly turn the bolt clockwise to see if that can get you passed the constriction. You should hit the nut with approximately 1/2" of stud out of the hole based upon the picture you posted above. Notice the length of rock dust on the stud which shows it was most probably the portion that screwed into the wedge nut. Once you think you are at the nut, start tightening it down. It should go easy then get very rapidly extremely hard to tighten. DON'T over-tighten it as that will also weaken the bolt. You want the relative tightness of the bolt to prevent hand turning the hex head in any capacity, but you also don't want to tighten to the point that you can't turn it tighter with all of your weight / force, as that means you are precariously close to the sheering point for the hex head. It is a balance, hence why appealing to someone more experienced in relation to a suspect bolt is always the best bet.

Let us know how it goes! I am not against someone else replacing it as I have already replaced that bolt twice due to the chopping of the routes during the time when the Quarry was off limits to climbers! Feb 24, 2016
GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
 
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
 
hi Gang,
thanks for the feedback. I tried to hand tighten it 1st, then when back with my nut tool to try and screw it down even more. The rock around the bolt does not work well for my nut tool and was hard to get any rotations on it. :( I am not a expert route setter or a bolt placement guy and have sooooo much respect for all FA parties and folks who are stewards of the area. I am into the history and ethics of the area and apologize if anyone feels It was bad for me to remove this bolt.
I am going back Thursday 2.25.2016 with a proper tool to tighten it back down and will report back on my progress. If anyone would like to help or offer better suggestions I am 100000% open.

My decision to take the bolt/hanger was out of fear of someone blowing it and the bolt goes. It literally came out after a few wobbly turns. Thanks for discussing this local issue, appreciate it greatly.
Love these mtns we have and the climbs we are able to do.

Peace
Gizzard Feb 24, 2016
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
Aarons a solid dude, he's not going to get upset with someone else fixing a bolt on one of his routes, nor would anyone else I have ever met who puts routes up. Just have a clue of what you're doing or ask someone to help you who does. Sounds to me like the bolt just worked itself loose and needs to be re-tightened. You should have just left it in place and hand tightened it instead of totally removing the bolt. A hand tightened bolt is better than a missing one and can be "re-tightened" by anyone climbing the route until it can be properly snugged up with a wrench. Feb 24, 2016
Chasing Choss
California
Chasing Choss   California
whoa.. scary check with aaron to see if he is okay with someone else fixing it! Feb 24, 2016
GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
 
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
 
hi Gang, I tried to screw the 1st bolt back on. It literally came out after I lead the route and lowered down to clean the draws and the 1st bolt was wobbling soo bad w the draw and lowering tension, after literally a few turns it came right out. I have the bolt & hanger still and will gladly mail to anyone who can help fix it and of course I will also gladly come out and help fix the route too.


Thanks
Gizzard





Feb 23, 2016
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
  5.9
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
  5.9
Thanks Aaron and Brian for the new hardware, it made the Memorial Wall shade a fun surprise this weekend. Apr 29, 2013
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
all bolts are back on Apr 29, 2013
Rough
 
Rough  
 
FA is Aaron Rough and Steve... Sorry I don't remember his last name! Apr 27, 2013
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.9
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.9
The first bolt is still missing as of this posting. Would make for a bit of a spicy on-sight, especially if you are not use to the climbing in the Quarry or not very comfortable on-sighting at least a few grades higher. Fun moves though. Apr 20, 2013