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Routes in The Bubble

"Left Edge" S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Bubble Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catchy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face, The Bubble Mt. St. Helena S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ladder, The S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Ladder Route T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Solar Power S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
West Face, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jordie Morgan, 1998
Page Views: 709 total, 4/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 19, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the longest route on the bubble. Climb up over the rightmost bulge from the base (the first move is probably .10ish) and then up a slab with good pockets.

The final crux (around the 6th bolt) involves a tricky move over the final bulge that will frustrate you, until you know how to do the move. Then the rating given is probably a little high.

Climbing is very runout after the crux, but the moves are probably the easiest on the bubble, so don't sweat it.

Consider this 2 boulder problems with a bunch of slabs thrown in to add to the variety.

Climbing this same line avoiding the crux and heading into the crack is another route, called "5.10d". You'll want to bring nuts or friends and long slings to avoid a drag nightmare.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Bring slings for the 1st, 2nd, and 5th bolts.

While you can access the top bolts of this climb from the top of the rock, you will find top roping this route not a good idea. This is due to the very bowed shape of the climb, and several sharp corners on the way up.

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I loved this route! The end on the slab is pretty beautiful
There are two crux in my opinion.
The first one is the first move and the second one is the small roof.

I managed to pass the roof by placing a perfect kneebar and going pretty high on some small feature.

Don't go in the chimney, it is out of route and full of lose rock. Mar 4, 2013
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I finally did this route. The lower crux is thuggish-one can fall on his belayer if he misses the left holds. The crux bulge for me was underclinging, to a few bear hug moves, to a good slot without feet. The top is too easy to worry about. Dec 28, 2012
markh  
The chockstones in the chimney crack are all loose, avoid using them as holds and just stem up. Aug 6, 2012