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Routes in The Bubble
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"Left Edge" S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Boba S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bubble Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Catchy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Face, The Bubble Mt. St. Helena S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ladder, The S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Old Ladder Route S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Solar Power S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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West Face, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft |
| FA: | Jordie Morgan, 1998 |
| Page Views: | 766 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Oct 19, 2002 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017
Details
PLEASE AVOID ST. HELENA FOR NOW. THE RECENT FIRES HAVE DECIMATED THE ROCK AND POTENTIALLY THE BOLTS. (10/23/17)
See the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=472 for current park closure information, or the MP forum discussion mountainproject.com/forum/t… for the latest on climbing impacts.
See the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=472 for current park closure information, or the MP forum discussion mountainproject.com/forum/t… for the latest on climbing impacts.
Description
This is the longest route on the bubble. Climb up over the rightmost bulge from the base (the first move is probably .10ish) and then up a slab with good pockets.
The final crux (around the 6th bolt) involves a tricky move over the final bulge that will frustrate you, until you know how to do the move. Then the rating given is probably a little high.
Climbing is very runout after the crux, but the moves are probably the easiest on the bubble, so don't sweat it.
Consider this 2 boulder problems with a bunch of slabs thrown in to add to the variety.
Climbing this same line avoiding the crux and heading into the crack is another route, called "5.10d". You'll want to bring nuts or friends and long slings to avoid a drag nightmare.
The final crux (around the 6th bolt) involves a tricky move over the final bulge that will frustrate you, until you know how to do the move. Then the rating given is probably a little high.
Climbing is very runout after the crux, but the moves are probably the easiest on the bubble, so don't sweat it.
Consider this 2 boulder problems with a bunch of slabs thrown in to add to the variety.
Climbing this same line avoiding the crux and heading into the crack is another route, called "5.10d". You'll want to bring nuts or friends and long slings to avoid a drag nightmare.
Protection
8 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Bring slings for the 1st, 2nd, and 5th bolts.
While you can access the top bolts of this climb from the top of the rock, you will find top roping this route not a good idea. This is due to the very bowed shape of the climb, and several sharp corners on the way up.
While you can access the top bolts of this climb from the top of the rock, you will find top roping this route not a good idea. This is due to the very bowed shape of the climb, and several sharp corners on the way up.
Photos
- No Photos -
Petaluma California
San Francisco, CA
There are two crux in my opinion.
The first one is the first move and the second one is the small roof.
I managed to pass the roof by placing a perfect kneebar and going pretty high on some small feature.
Don't go in the chimney, it is out of route and full of lose rock. Mar 4, 2013