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Routes in The Bubble

"Left Edge" S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Bubble Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catchy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face, The Bubble Mt. St. Helena S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ladder, The S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Ladder Route T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Solar Power S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
West Face, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,344 total, 23/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Mar 1, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located just right of bolted route The Ladder, this older climb, which bears the same name, stears clear of most of the difficulties associated with the harder climb. Jug after jug leads you up a slightly overhanging face to the ledge where the old top rope bolts were cut. From here head up the right side of the block (whereas the bolted climb stays left. The crack and dihedral are on.

Protection

Shares the top anchors with The Ladder. Set up a top rope by walking around the left side of The Bubble and placing a long sling on the 2 bolts atop the climb.Leading this climb would probably require much more than a standard rack. Very large cams could protect the huge brocken huecos down low, then as the pockets become more reasonably sized, normal cams would do the trick. Finally, some small nuts would work for the top crack. Know what you're doing before venturing to lead this traditionally top roped problem.

Photos

Really fun route. Slightly overhung with lots of jugs and great feet. Make sure to tie yourself in somewhere if you plan on setting up a top rope as it's a little sketchy on top. Mar 13, 2017
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
This is my favorite moderate lead at the Bubble. Thanks for the lead bolts! Nov 30, 2015
Eric Berghorn
Calistoga,CA
  5.10a/b PG13
Eric Berghorn   Calistoga,CA
  5.10a/b PG13
This often overlooked line was Bolted April 2012. 6 bolts to chain anchor. Finishes right of "The Ladder" and left of "Bubble Boy". This climb has its own anchor just below the tree at the top of the dihedral. I too was surprised that this line was never bolted and after waiting several years I recently revisited this project. Classic pocket pulling on this moderate lead ! May 2, 2012
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a X
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a X
This climb is really fun. Chris Summit's "The Wine Country Rocks" rates this as 5.10b/c. The holds are huge overhanging jugs and there is a large hole in which you can squat and rest. I think it would be a bit tough for 5.9 if leading it--which I doubt anybody ever does. I'm surprised nobody has ever bolted it. Oct 28, 2008