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Routes in The Bubble

"Left Edge" S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boba S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bubble Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catchy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face, The Bubble Mt. St. Helena S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ladder, The S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Buddy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Ladder Route S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Solar Power S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
West Face, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
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Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,588 total · 23/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Mar 1, 2002 with updates from Eugenel Espiritu
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

Located just right of bolted route The Ladder, this older climb, which bears the same name, stears clear of most of the difficulties associated with the harder climb. Jug after jug leads you up a slightly overhanging face to the ledge where the old top rope bolts were cut. From here head up the right side of the block (whereas the bolted climb stays left. The crack and dihedral are on.

Protection

6 bolts. Shares the top anchors with The Ladder. Set up a top rope by walking around the left side of The Bubble and placing a long sling on the 2 bolts atop the climb. Trad leading this climb would probably require much more than a standard rack. Very large cams could protect the huge brocken huecos down low, then as the pockets become more reasonably sized, normal cams would do the trick. Finally, some small nuts would work for the top crack. Know what you're doing before venturing to lead this traditionally top roped problem.

Photos

Floyd Hayes
  5.10a X
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a X
This climb is really fun. Chris Summit's "The Wine Country Rocks" rates this as 5.10b/c. The holds are huge overhanging jugs and there is a large hole in which you can squat and rest. I think it would be a bit tough for 5.9 if leading it--which I doubt anybody ever does. I'm surprised nobody has ever bolted it. Oct 28, 2008
Eric Berghorn
Calistoga,CA
  5.10a/b PG13
Eric Berghorn   Calistoga,CA
  5.10a/b PG13
This often overlooked line was Bolted April 2012. 6 bolts to chain anchor. Finishes right of "The Ladder" and left of "Bubble Boy". This climb has its own anchor just below the tree at the top of the dihedral. I too was surprised that this line was never bolted and after waiting several years I recently revisited this project. Classic pocket pulling on this moderate lead ! May 2, 2012
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
This is my favorite moderate lead at the Bubble. Thanks for the lead bolts! Nov 30, 2015
Really fun route. Slightly overhung with lots of jugs and great feet. Make sure to tie yourself in somewhere if you plan on setting up a top rope as it's a little sketchy on top. Mar 13, 2017
Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
  5.10b
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
  5.10b
10c? first move if you're very short.

10b if you sprint up it.

10a- if you take your time and enjoy the really cool rests!

Glad this got (re)bolted this season, although it's a bummer that you can no longer climb one of the bolts by reaching through a hueco out of the little cave.

Get ready to be stumped moving past the first bolt if you normally climb indoors or are climbing near your limit. Apr 30, 2018

More About Old Ladder Route

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