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Routes in Mount Doom

Slab Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Summit Route S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
West Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,132 total, 6/month
Shared By: Morgan Brown on Sep 13, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Depending on where you start from, this route can be almost 80 feet long. Descend a gnarly climbers' trail along Mount Doom's sunny west face. The ideal belay spot is an obvious series of boulders. From there, the climb is about 70 feet high. The first 20 feet are easy, but unprotected scalloped sandstone slabs, 5.4 or so. Gain a series of classic CRSP pockets and tie off a runner in a cave if you wish. After another 20 feet or so, you reach the "big ledge" of Morris's guidebook. Aim for a small bush on the ledge. A vertical crack left of the bush will accept a medium nut. A couple moves of 5.6 get you to a large step. The underside of this step will take medium gear; I placed a medium hex and a medium nut. The crux of the climb is the next couple moves. Take the path of least resistance to overcome the ledge. The anchor is 10 feet of class 4 climbing away. There are six bolts in plain sight: two rusty 1/4" spinners, two decent 3/8" bolts, and two brand new 3/8" bolts, each with a rap ring.

Copied from my Castle Rock page: sepstanford.edu/sep/morgan/…

Protection

Leave the cams at home. Runner to tie off buckethandle holds. Medium-to-large nuts elsewhere. New two-bolt anchor with rap rings at summit.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7 R
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7 R
Finding myself alone but with rope a few years ago, I rope-soloed up this but took the easier "cop-out" to the right (about 5.4-5.5 ? ), then back left to the top. Protection was pretty good with med.-sized Camalots, except for the move up and around the right side of the OH. Then TR'd the main line (about 5.7) and the "Summit Route". Mar 28, 2016