Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,414 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Morgan Brown on Sep 13, 2002 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
Depending on where you start from, this route can be almost 80 feet long. Descend a gnarly climbers' trail along Mount Doom's sunny west face. The ideal belay spot is an obvious series of boulders. From there, the climb is about 70 feet high. The first 20 feet are easy, but unprotected scalloped sandstone slabs, 5.4 or so. Gain a series of classic CRSP pockets and tie off a runner in a cave if you wish. After another 20 feet or so, you reach the "big ledge" of Morris's guidebook. Aim for a small bush on the ledge. A vertical crack left of the bush will accept a medium nut. A couple moves of 5.6 get you to a large step. The underside of this step will take medium gear; I placed a medium hex and a medium nut. The crux of the climb is the next couple moves. Take the path of least resistance to overcome the ledge. The anchor is 10 feet of class 4 climbing away. There are six bolts in plain sight: two rusty 1/4" spinners, two decent 3/8" bolts, and two brand new 3/8" bolts, each with a rap ring.
Copied from my Castle Rock page: sepstanford.edu/sep/morgan/…
Copied from my Castle Rock page: sepstanford.edu/sep/morgan/…
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