Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Hatchett, Jeff Mckitterick, 1993
Page Views: 466 total · 2/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 22, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

This route is located in the crazy colorful rocks just to the left of the main cave area. If you see a section that's got giant blocks colored green, orange, white and black in addition to the standard Big Chief off-red, you're probably in the right place.

There are two routes that ascend this section, this is the right one. The other route is Big Cheif Arete (5.11a) and is also an excellent route.

In climbing this route, you can throw away any and all moves you've ever learned in indoor and outdoor sport climbing. You will get dizzy looking around for grips and things to help you on your way up, though the climb is well worth any vertigo you may experience.

There are a few sections of this route that are a little runout, so rest when you can.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

whipp  
Delicate and powerful with a blind throw. Great climb Mar 15, 2005
Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.10c
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.10c
Difficult to onsight. Feels kinda like trad climbing with bolts. Nov 22, 2010
Jebus H Bomz
Sacramento, CA
 
Jebus H Bomz   Sacramento, CA
 
The top crux is pretty stout and thin. The rest isn't that bad. Dec 16, 2010
An onsight of this route is quite challenging since there's no chalk and there's a lot of route finding weirdness going on. Cool adventure. Jun 28, 2016