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Routes in Center Wall

All Guns Blazing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Big Chief Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bird of Prey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blazing Buckets S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Early Bird TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eat the Worm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamethrower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Force Feed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funambulist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Hornet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Rush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mohawk S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Falcon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Shark S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Peace Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peace Pipe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pow Wow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raindance S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Stealers From Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Bull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Scalper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toilet Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Too Light to Wait S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Chawsome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trail of Tears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Travail Buttress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wampum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Paint S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War Path S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wicked Quickie S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Witch Doctor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Hatchett, Jeff Mckitterick, 1993
Page Views: 308 total · 2/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 22, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is located in the crazy colorful rocks just to the left of the main cave area. If you see a section that's got giant blocks colored green, orange, white and black in addition to the standard Big Chief off-red, you're probably in the right place.

There are two routes that ascend this section, this is the right one. The other route is Big Cheif Arete (5.11a) and is also an excellent route.

In climbing this route, you can throw away any and all moves you've ever learned in indoor and outdoor sport climbing. You will get dizzy looking around for grips and things to help you on your way up, though the climb is well worth any vertigo you may experience.

There are a few sections of this route that are a little runout, so rest when you can.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

An onsight of this route is quite challenging since there's no chalk and there's a lot of route finding weirdness going on. Cool adventure. Jun 28, 2016
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The top crux is pretty stout and thin. The rest isn't that bad. Dec 16, 2010
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.10c
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.10c
Difficult to onsight. Feels kinda like trad climbing with bolts. Nov 22, 2010
whipp  
Delicate and powerful with a blind throw. Great climb Mar 15, 2005