Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Crack A No Go

5.10a, Trad, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 24 votes
FA: unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner Summit > Rd Cut, The

Description

Climb the large dihedral and crack about 2 feet to the right of it up a block on the left side of the road cut. A brief period where the crack is too wide for fist jams is the crux.

Protection

Pro to 4 inches, there's a smaller crack within the main one making most any sized gear usefull.There are two bolts atop the ledge for rappelling off, but they don't work so well to top rope from unless you use a long sling.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crack a no go is the line that follows the cracks by the red line on the right side of the picture. Photo copyright 2002 Aron Quiter.
[Hide Photo] Crack a no go is the line that follows the cracks by the red line on the right side of the picture. Photo copyright 2002 Aron Quiter.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
[Hide Comment] A short stout crack. A bit trickier to lead than it looks from the base. I don't know if I agree with the previous poster with regards to this crack vs. Primer, but I guess that's the beauty of climbing. Oct 1, 2013
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
[Hide Comment] best to lower off the 1st anchor, the top half is choss with a death block waiting to crush your belayer Nov 13, 2015
Ned
[Hide Comment] Should've read the comments on MP before climbing... Only had one #4 so I protected the bottom using the bolts on Escargot. While the crux off the ledge is fun, a little higher the rock gets rotten, and then the top bit is climbing up a hollow flake. If you do decide to go to the top, make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet and everyone else is far away from the base. Any larger rocks coming off would probably explode off the ledge and spray the base with shrapnel. May 29, 2017
Darshan Ahluwalia
Orange, CA
[Hide Comment] What Crimper said: best to stop at the first anchor. The upper crack is mostly on rotten rock with a death block waiting to be pulled off. Don't do it. Oct 28, 2018