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Routes in Leaning Tower, The

Eastern Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Bolt Route TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southeastern Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Southern Face T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,043 total · 16/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 3, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Park closed nightly from sunset to 7:00 am Details

Description

Climb the juggy arete on the initially overhung southeast corner of the rock. A great pumpy route, with holds appearing as the route progresses. There is also a great undercling just before the final roof, though the route can be finished either by climbing around the final bulge to the left, or around it to the right.

A trad fall will drop you a fair ways down into a bush if you fall before your first placement. This is also the toughest part of the route, so don't fall.

Protection

Small to large friends (small to 3").

To set up a top rope, bring a long sling (30'+). You could also use larger friends (up to 4") to create a suitable anchor in the cracks above

Photos

Jennifer H  
 
I set a top rope on this route by threading some webbing (2 15' foot pieces of webbing) through a small tunnel in the rock at the top. There were a few different spots you could choose to thread. We had to downclimb each time on the 5.4 (or there's another, equally easy route straight down the center) to avoid too much friction on the rope.

The views are spectacular! Apr 22, 2009
Riley McDonald
  5.9+ R
Riley McDonald  
  5.9+ R
Gear:
sling/.75 c4 at first horn/jug halfway up
.5 c4 under the roof (extend w/ 120cm sling) right before topping out
Long sling or #2 and #4/5 c4's for the anchor. Dec 28, 2013

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