Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Neil Galoot, 2002
Page Views: 1,445 total · 6/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 28, 2002
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the right facing dihedral just below the Pinecrest Peak sign. The dihedral can also be seen from the top of The Herring Dome.

The rock is granite, with beautiful red, orange and pink colors making the visual stimulation on the climb sometimes a little too much.

Starting in the corner, traverse through the bush and head up a sustained face using the arete as necessary. The route is sustained .10a, and if you're not acclimatized, it will feel like a considerably tougher climb. Some pockets are huge, some are small, but the climbing gets easier up at the top.

To approach this climb: Set up a trad (placements are plentiful) anchor on the dihedral above the climb, and rappel down to the top anchor, over the corner and down the face of the climb to a medium sized belay area. The preferred approach rope would be a single 60 meter rope, which will reach the talus field below, and using another rope to climb the route.

Another alternative approach is to climb the sketchy class 3 up to the base of the climb from the talus field below.

Getting out of the belay area either requires you to downclimb (or rappell) into the talus field, or to climb the route.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. A 1" friend will be helpful in ensuring that an initial fall doesn't send you 60 feet down the rocky cliff below.

This can also be lead with pro, using mostly medium to large pieces (1" - 4")

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