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Routes in Red Herring Dihedrals

Lakeview Arete T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Neil Galoot, 2002
Page Views: 767 total, 4/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 28, 2002
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the right facing dihedral just below the Pinecrest Peak sign. The dihedral can also be seen from the top of The Herring Dome.

The rock is granite, with beautiful red, orange and pink colors making the visual stimulation on the climb sometimes a little too much.

Starting in the corner, traverse through the bush and head up a sustained face using the arete as necessary. The route is sustained .10a, and if you're not acclimatized, it will feel like a considerably tougher climb. Some pockets are huge, some are small, but the climbing gets easier up at the top.

To approach this climb: Set up a trad (placements are plentiful) anchor on the dihedral above the climb, and rappel down to the top anchor, over the corner and down the face of the climb to a medium sized belay area. The preferred approach rope would be a single 60 meter rope, which will reach the talus field below, and using another rope to climb the route.

Another alternative approach is to climb the sketchy class 3 up to the base of the climb from the talus field below.

Getting out of the belay area either requires you to downclimb (or rappell) into the talus field, or to climb the route.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. A 1" friend will be helpful in ensuring that an initial fall doesn't send you 60 feet down the rocky cliff below.

This can also be lead with pro, using mostly medium to large pieces (1" - 4")

Photos

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This is a bolted face climb. The arete does not take pro except the .5 and .75 camalot to reach the first bolt.

When Neil led the FA of the face, he was using small aliens and cams in very shallow placements, and was all over the face, not just going up the arete. The name of his climb is "Tradman Galoot." Comments about larger cams is incorrect regarding Lakeview Arete. Aug 11, 2004