Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Dwarf Toss

5.11d, Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
California > Sonora Pass Hig… > Table Mountain > Cave
Access Issue: Agreement in place at Gold Wall. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

This is the second leftmost (uphill) route on the wall, and heads straight up for the four bolts and then traverses left to the top anchor.

The first bolt is reachy, and the crux is getting yourself to it, so it's probably a good idea to stick clip the first bolt.

Crux is getting yourself over the first roof, and is quite hard if you're under six feet tall, though it can be done using a small sidepull grip below the corner of the roof.

Once you get over the first roof climbing gets simpler, with .11a jug moves.

An alternate start involves doing the start of Grotto Monkey (the climb just left) and carefully traversing yourself right to the large horn and large flake system above the first bolt.

You will probably hate yourself for top roping this and all other routes on the Cave Wall, as it often takes a .10ish move to just pull yourself back onroute if you fall off.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

A directional is probably a good idea on the fourth bolt if you've already got a rope through the top anchors and are planning on climbing this route.

Location

Second from the left on the Cave Wall in the Pit.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fun fun fun.
[Hide Photo] Fun fun fun.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I am 175cm tall and chose the traverse start since direct start is too hard for me (with my height). If you traverse, the start 5 moves are the Crux. I would say the rest (from 2nd cilp to the anchor) is 5.9 to 5.10-.The first move to slap the slopey roof is a committed move as you get a swing if you fall. The belayer should be very attentive. For me, the first 5 moves isV3+ or V4 boulder problem. If you are 6 feet tall or so, you can do the direct start to avoid the nasty swing. May 24, 2004
Bernard Van De Walle
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Easy for tall people or dynamic people;-) Mar 11, 2013