Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 872 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 28, 2002
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

This is the second leftmost (uphill) route on the wall, and heads straight up for the four bolts and then traverses left to the top anchor.

The first bolt is reachy, and the crux is getting yourself to it, so it's probably a good idea to stick clip the first bolt.

Crux is getting yourself over the first roof, and is quite hard if you're under six feet tall, though it can be done using a small sidepull grip below the corner of the roof.

Once you get over the first roof climbing gets simpler, with .11a jug moves.

An alternate start involves doing the start of Grotto Monkey (the climb just left) and carefully traversing yourself right to the large horn and large flake system above the first bolt.

You will probably hate yourself for top roping this and all other routes on the Cave Wall, as it often takes a .10ish move to just pull yourself back onroute if you fall off.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

A directional is probably a good idea on the fourth bolt if you've already got a rope through the top anchors and are planning on climbing this route.

Location

Second from the left on the Cave Wall in the Pit.

Photos