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Peeping Tom
5.9+,
Sport, 30 ft (9 m),
Avg: 1.9 from 84
votes
FA: unknown
California
> San Francisco B…
> Marin/Northwest…
> Mickey's Beach
> Peeper's Rock
Description
Plenty of sideways movement, non-obvious and sometimes greasy hands make this one of the toughest 5.9's in the Bay Area. Also, it is a tad bit run out, so it's not a comfortable lead unless you onsight 5.10+.
The route is located opposite of the ocean, so it doesn't depend on the tide.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains.
Easy to set-up as a top-rope after leading, or leading the neighboring overhang climb.
[Hide Photo] Long exposure photo of climbing route with LEDs tied to myself.
[Hide Photo] Wyatt leading Peeping Tom. Photo by Mom
[Hide Photo] My first lead climb ever. Notice how I'm not clipped in. Photo by Sarah
[Hide Photo] New, non-rusty bolts on the route. The first bolt is lower that you would guess in the photo.
[Hide Photo] Peeper's Rock with useable bolts. I don't count the rusty 1/4"ers around the corner as useable!
[Hide Photo] Me leading Peeping Tom. I think Wyatt was with us, lol next time he'll actually clip the chains instead of topping out a sport route...Photo by Mom.
[Hide Photo] Paul and I climbed this route again for the second time. Monika took some great pictures!!! We still agree that this is a rather difficult 5.9, mostly because the first bolt is Waaaaayy up (ifyou…
[Hide Photo] Sallie showing some fancy footwork on Peepers.
[Hide Comment] I'd agree that this was a tough route for a 5.9. The traversy moves in the middle of the route were interesting, and it took some thought to figure out how to get from the first clip to the second.
[Hide Comment] I thought that this would be a fun way to end the day and thought I would cruise it. I found it very tiring and not obvious. It was fun but definitely a challenge. I'm glad others found this to be a tough 9 also!
May 12, 2003
[Hide Comment] This was a difficult 5.9 at best. I think the scariest aspect is that the first bolt is about 12-14 feet up but the ground falls away to the right making a fall very perilous. The hand holds were not so easy to find as were the footholds, especially at the bottom. More than once, I had to do a double take to figure out where I was going. After the first bolt, the route became more fingery and I migrated to the right side to get over the top. Don't worry about locking beaners or super tech gear, the route is too short, just a couple of quick draws and a strong partner to spot you at the base....
Mar 1, 2004
[Hide Comment] Just lead this route yesterday because i figured it would be a good top-rope for my less experienced friends who tagged along. The lead was a little nerve racking up to the first bolt and the whole climb seemed a little technical for 5.9 climbing. Overall it was a fun and interesting climb. There are many different ways to climb the route and it was fun to see everyones different interpretations of the holds and moves!
Jan 21, 2013
[Hide Comment] Recent storms completely eroded away about 5 feet of the mound from which you used to start the climb. It looks like fun steep bouldering into the climb now, likely a good bit harder. Should still be able to reach the first bolt with a good stick. Ultimately it will probably make sense to add a lower bolt to this climb.
Feb 1, 2023
[Hide Comment] Ha! This is the first “ground-down” ascent I’ve done….added a fourth bolt at the bottom (the new bolt looks like the dangerous 316SS wedge-bolts, but it’s one of the new titanium wedge-bolts). This climb was originally 30ft tall, but it’s closer to 40ft now with all the ground erosion.
Feb 9, 2023
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