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Routes in The Bubble

"Left Edge" S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Bubble Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catchy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face, The Bubble Mt. St. Helena S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ladder, The S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Ladder Route T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Solar Power S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
West Face, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,501 total, 18/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Mar 1, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The Ladder is the left-most climb facing the fire road on the bubble. Its pretty easy to recognize with the large pockets on the slighty overhanging face. Older guide books tend to draw the route just right of the actual bolts - which aren't mentioned. This is the 5.9 version of The Ladder. The climb is neat and mostly straight-forward; big jugs, spaced widely enough to make you work for them. The crux comes between the 4th and 5th bolt where the jugs end and you have to traverse a little right. From the ledge, the next bolt is about 10 feet higher, and clipping this bolt and the following bolt are also difficult.

Protection

8 olts to a 2 bolt anchor. There's potential to land hard on a ledge if you fail to clip the 5th bolt and fall.To set up a top rope, walk around the left side of the Bubble and head up a steep path. A long sling will help reduce drag.
FourT6and2
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2   San Francisco, CA
Oh, also one of the hangers at the top anchor is spinning. The bolt doesn't move (it's rusted), just the hanger. Feb 29, 2016
FourT6and2
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2   San Francisco, CA
Did this one today and it was awesome. I was able to "arm bar" in one of the larger pockets for a nice rest haha. And there's an old bird's nest in one of 'em too. I'm probably not a great judge of grades. But if some of you think this is an 11 of some sort then cool. Compared to other 10s I've done (not many), it felt like a 10d is pretty accurate. Feb 29, 2016
reese butler
Altadena, CA
reese butler   Altadena, CA
Going left at the top feels like it goes 10- and going right in the bay area climbing book says 11b. I guess 1-2 moves on the left top out could go 10d Mar 3, 2014
marc g
San Francisco, CA
  5.11a PG13
marc g   San Francisco, CA
  5.11a PG13
Very fun, juggy lead with a tricky finger pocket sequence at the top. Maybe there is a way to traverse right at the top, but I went straight up and there were 3 finger pockets that need to hit with the right sequence. Anchor bolts way off to left, unless you extend. Definitely not X or even runout. Mar 4, 2013
Not "x" rated by any means, maybe a tricky first bolt, but totally safe. My favorite climb at the bubble. Dec 11, 2012
Anders
Berkeley
Anders   Berkeley
Definitely harder than 10d. Definitely not X. More like 11b/c, and PG for sure. Bubble Boy, 11b, is significantly easier on the whole. Feb 26, 2012
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.11b/c
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.11b/c
Pfft, X. I'm with Dodrill on this one, PG maybe.

Hell of alot harder than .10d too. Jul 25, 2010
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.11a PG13
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.11a PG13
X? Serious? PG13 maybe. Jul 25, 2010
Floyd Hayes
5.11b PG13
Floyd Hayes  
5.11b PG13
This climb requires brute strength to lead, more than I am endowed with (I've only top-roped it). For me it's much harder than West Face. I've watched about five climbers flail on the upper part after being lulled into thinking it was only 5.9, based on Tresa Black's "Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area." One took a long swing while trying to traverse left to West Face and was lucky not to hurt his ankle. Oct 27, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Nearing the top of this route, at the 5th bolt, I moved hard left to the anchors above the "West Face" (or is it called "West Facing" ? ) and found that to be an interesting variation. It is about 5.10c done this way, at the moves to pull away from the arete are somewhat hard. Aug 20, 2002