PRINT: Rock Climb Two for One (right variation), San Francisco Bay Area

Two for One (right variation)

5.10d, Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 2 from 29 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > Mt Diablo SP > Boy Scout Rocks > Middle Tier

Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Castle Rock in Pine Canyon and the Wanna Get Away areas are closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.

Description

The direct route to the coldshuts on the right side of the middle tier. These are located about 15' to the left of the crack (5.7).

This route is pretty straight forward, climb up into the bowl, and then work your way up and right up the cracklike feature on the rock. The crux is the top of the crack, though you can add another mini-crux by traversing over to the top anchor at the top instead of topping out.

Protection

Glue-ins at the top (same as for left variation). Use a pad/tarp or webbing to get your top-rope over the lip to help avoid rope-scarring.

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The middle section of the middle tier. Climb left out of the big bucket for a 5.9, or climb straight up for a 5.11.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.10c

OK route, short and reasonably solid. sandy though...The grade of 5.10c is probably about right as I did it, which is how it is described, going up the rock to the seam, up on the seam, then traversing back left below the bolt anchor. You can also go to the bowl, traverse left 6 feet (10a), then climb back up and right to the anchors to make it easier.

One of the bolts at the TR anchor is a nasty spinner that is obviously fracturing out of the rock and should be replaced very soon. Contributing to this failure rate is probably the tendancy for people to TR through both anchors iwth no draws, multiplying and re-directing the orces on those anchors.

Too sandy to be a good route- not bad, true, but definately not good.

The grade of 5.10c is probably about right as I did it, which is how it is described, going up the rock to the seam, up on the seam, then traversing back left below the bolt anchor. You can also go to the bowl, traverse left 6 feet (10a), then climb back up and right to the anchors to make it easier.

One of the bolts at the TR anchor is a nasty spinner that is obviously fracturing out of the rock and should be replaced very soon. Contributing to this failure rate is probably the tendancy for people to TR through both anchors iwth no draws, multiplying and re-directing the orces on those anchors. Sep 22, 2003

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA

5.10d

Another possible variation is either getting into the initial cave from the left side or the right side. The left side appears to be more difficult, and some is balancey fun. The move is complicated by the fact you have to do tricky foot/body positioning while getting your fingers to stick the small seam of a sandy sloper. I ended up crucified on two small holds while doing some dance steps. I did the top as Tony Bubb did, but, unlike him, I think these two variations make the climb a solid 5.10D, as previously rated. Oct 24, 2005

Salamanizer Ski
Off the Grid…

5.10d

This route is now called "Two for One". .10a to the left, .11a to the right.

The old anchor which has been bad for the past decade finally blew out and has been replaced by two new glue-ins. Chain and quicklinks should be added to these anchors to minimize rope scarring and discourage TRing through the glue-in anchors. Feb 4, 2013