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5.11a, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 45 votes
FA: Ken Ariza
California > San Francisco B… > Mickey's Beach > Egg

Description

Find this route on the far right side of the north face of the rock. It can be tide dependant for the belay stance, though standing on the prominent rock behind the climb will help in all but the highest of tides. An interesting balancy route with great ocean views. Near the top avoid the temptation of heading way right, as the rock there is quite loose.

Protection

8 bolts to a bolt bolt top anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Great perspective of "The Egg" as Danil approaches the anchors.
[Hide Photo] Great perspective of "The Egg" as Danil approaches the anchors.
Nick closing in on the anchors as waves crash beneath him. True West Coast climb.
[Hide Photo] Nick closing in on the anchors as waves crash beneath him. True West Coast climb.
Good Pic!
[Hide Photo] Good Pic!
Soaked in sea water, following this awesome route.
[Hide Photo] Soaked in sea water, following this awesome route.
Now past the first couple cruxes, there are still two tougher ones coming up!
[Hide Photo] Now past the first couple cruxes, there are still two tougher ones coming up!
The first of the long reaches approaching the difficult crux of the climb.
[Hide Photo] The first of the long reaches approaching the difficult crux of the climb.
Joe just getting off the ground.  This climb requires a few long reaches and is quite a bit more difficult if you are shorter than 5 foot 10 or so.
[Hide Photo] Joe just getting off the ground. This climb requires a few long reaches and is quite a bit more difficult if you are shorter than 5 foot 10 or so.
The short second crux didn't stop Joe from having fun!
[Hide Photo] The short second crux didn't stop Joe from having fun!
Starting the crux bulge.
[Hide Photo] Starting the crux bulge.
Traversing right from the first bolt on a foggy day.
[Hide Photo] Traversing right from the first bolt on a foggy day.
Paul surveying his position...
[Hide Photo] Paul surveying his position...
Early in the route
[Hide Photo] Early in the route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] On a windy day, a more feathery climber (aron) may get blown around on the balancy moves above the sea. Aug 27, 2002
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
[Hide Comment] We lucked out and had gorgeous weather with a wonderful sunset! This route is fantastic! Even the very first move getting both feet on the wall was interesting! Moving to the right over the crashing waves makes this route fun and exhilarating! It doesn't look that steep up around the 4th bolt but it is! I blew out first try and had to give it a strong second attempt to get past this crux. I'll be posting some photos soon! May 22, 2003
[Hide Comment] This route humbled me. Albiet, I am relatively inexperienced, with time, I can usually make it up most 5 10's.Not this one. What a blast however, the waves crashing below my feet the sun setting in the West and the solid rock beneath my aching fingers all made for a spectacular experience. Who knew such killer climbing was in our backyard. I went wit my Friend Paul who led the route and he made it up easily as I lazil belayed him from below. the first part was trickeier than I had anticpated and was perhaps what drained me of my stregnth to continue. May 23, 2003
Ami Bhatt
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This is a classic California-postcard climb. The setting is phenomenal (just over the Pacific Ocean - literally) and the route is great as long as you stay off the area just past the right side arete (it's quite crumbly). Dec 5, 2004
EliotAC
Mill Valley
 
[Hide Comment] FA was Ken Ariza Aug 31, 2009
kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
[Hide Comment] Just hit this up yesterday and It def feels like a rock is missing for the 10c rating. You can see newer rock texture/color right at the place where one would expect a hold to be.

Still doable (and probably more fun now) but requires much thinner edging and smearing and balance work than is the character of the rest of the climb. Dec 27, 2009
[Hide Comment] Iv'e been going back down here a bit and have forgotten how good some of this stuff is. A key hold has broken at the crux by the 6th? bolt and this route is easily 5.10d/5.11a now. looks like there might be more breakage at some point as the edge at the end of the difficulties a bit hollow..... Jul 14, 2011
Hein
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Have to concur with the route being a bit tricky around the 6th bolt.

It seemed like a good idea to have the belayer anchored to the first bolt as well (it's easily reachable from the belay rock). Aug 8, 2011
David Friend
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Yes, a key chip for the left hand has broken, and moving up to the right after clipping the sixth bolt feels like 5.11a/b (height dependent). It's a one move crux, and rest of climb is still 5.10-fun! Pull on the draw if near your limit. Oct 29, 2011
Tom B.
Lodi, CA
  5.10c PG13
[Hide Comment] I think it was the 6th bolt that was rusty and loose on this route. High up enough where you can fall have it pop and still be ok, but it's also right at the crux and there's a runout (relative to the rest of the route) above it.

Still an awesome route. May 13, 2013
Nicholas L.
Chapel Hill, NC
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Going to add another vote to the "this felt like an 11" bandwagon. Great route though and amazing setting. Aug 30, 2013
Maxwell Dergosits
San Francisco
[Hide Comment] I was there yesterday and some climbers said they broke off another hold! Jul 16, 2017
[Hide Comment] Bolt at the crux spins freely and hangs out of the wall a half inch as of 7-22-2017. Great route despite that. Felt 11a/b at worst. Jul 24, 2017
David S.
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Best route on The Egg, in my opinion (I can't do the 12s). Thought it was a 10c getting on, glad I didn't look at the updated beta to sow doubt in my mind. The crux is distinct, well-protected right at the 6th bolt (which you can clip at a reach from a decent jug below it)-- go for it!

Moving right onto the arete there was definitely the most difficult move. Exposure over the crashing ocean waves was sublime, and we had a show of dolphins and seals just beyond the rocks to boot. Not too bad. Aug 13, 2017
Ysbrand Nusse
San Francisco, CA
[Hide Comment] On Jan 28, 2018, we found the shaft of the crux 6th bolt very loose - I could flex it by hand and backed off. Many of the other hangers were loose as well. This route is starting to be a bit scary, and could really use some glue-ins. Jan 28, 2018
David S.
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I brought a wrench up with me this past Saturday to tighten that notorious 6th bolt and failed to fix it-- the bolt itself is spinning (which is terrifying, as I took a decent fall on it), though the nut over the hanger is quite secure. Agree with Ysbrand-- many of the bolts on this climb should be replaced. Jan 29, 2018
Ben Horowitz
Tokyo, JP / Berkeley, CA
[Hide Comment] Went up there yesterday, climbed to sixth bolt, clipped it, immediately unclipped it and down-climbed... The bolt seems just completely loose in the hole... I would love to help someone who knows what they are doing out to replace it (and all the other bolts there) with the new standard glue-ins and/or pitch in some money for it! Jun 7, 2018
jimi thornburg
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] The 6th bolt is now a titanium glue in. Thanks to the Asca for the titanium and to Kim Pfabe and Nick Andrew for help replacing it. The old bolt is still there and will be removed soonish. Jul 29, 2018