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Nat's Traverse

5.13 V8, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 60 votes
FA: Nat Smale, 1976
California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > Berkeley > Mortar Rock Park > Mortar Rock

Description

The best problem in the Bay Area hands down! I can't believe it wasn't listed yet. The obvious line starting from the corner as you come up the stairs...pulling the corner is the first crux...(the top rail is off)...then the bulge right after the tree is the next crux...it ends on the ramp and is about 30 feet long..

Protection

Pad isn't really necessary...maybe for the ramp. You are no more than 3 feet off until the end.

Videos

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo by Chris Macnamara (supertopo.com)
[Hide Photo] Photo by Chris Macnamara (supertopo.com)
Stella on a burn on Nat's on a sunny day.
[Hide Photo] Stella on a burn on Nat's on a sunny day.
Three pictures spliced together to create a curved view of Nat's Traverse
[Hide Photo] Three pictures spliced together to create a curved view of Nat's Traverse
Stella sent her 3 year proj, Nats!!!!!!!!!! CONGRATS!!!!!
[Hide Photo] Stella sent her 3 year proj, Nats!!!!!!!!!! CONGRATS!!!!!
Stella sending her 3 year mega project Nats traverse today. It was pretty cool
[Hide Photo] Stella sending her 3 year mega project Nats traverse today. It was pretty cool
Stella at the Beginning of Nat's Traverse, her long time proj.
[Hide Photo] Stella at the Beginning of Nat's Traverse, her long time proj.
Stella almost hitting the crux
[Hide Photo] Stella almost hitting the crux
Photo by Inno.
[Hide Photo] Photo by Inno.
Another piece of the traverse has chipped off. As soon as you round the corner...I don't think it was often used, however it is right below the crack people use when coming around the corner.
[Hide Photo] Another piece of the traverse has chipped off. As soon as you round the corner...I don't think it was often used, however it is right below the crack people use when coming around the corner.
Getting sprayed down on the Half Nat's flash attempt
[Hide Photo] Getting sprayed down on the Half Nat's flash attempt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] Aron and I have made a point to only list problems and climbs we have done. And while Nat's has provided hours of enjoyment and frustration, we haven't been able to pull it off. But hell yeah! From what little expertise I have on the route, I would completely agree that it kicks ass, and belongs on the site.Thanks for adding it AC. Sep 11, 2002
[Hide Comment] There are many cruxes on this amazing problem. As Brian mentions above, this route can provide weeks of entertainment working out the various sections -- it took me about 2 months to work it all out, and I loved every minute of it. The beta for each section is often as varied as the problem. EG, right after the bulge, I know of at least 4 different ways to traverse the section, each with interesting names: The Girls Variation, The Ladies Variation, The Mans Variation, and The Real Man's Variation (for what its worth, I use the Ladies Variation...the Real Man's Variation must be another grade harder at least). I agree that the sidepull crux moving around the first corner sets the tone; I think its tricky moving into the bulge, through the bulge, out of the bulge, across to the ramp, up the ramp, and over the top!! This problem is also hard right up to the very end -- before finally getting it, I must have done the entire thing 4 or 5 times just to fall off 1-3 moves from the end. But, once you get it, your body tension skills and endurance will be much better for it. I've heard it called V7, but I found it just as hard as the Mushroom Roof in Hueco, the archetypal V8, if not quite as crimpy. I've also seen it done in Teva's...amazing, especially the toe / heel hooks used to negotiate the bulge.

One last comment: don't let the high number prevent you from playing on this problem. I worked this route with a couple friends who'd never sent V5, and they had a ball working on sections, and even put together some really good links.

This problem (like the 45 degree wall, may it rest in peace) deserves 5 stars. Nov 21, 2002
[Hide Comment] I think the inevitable has happened Jaxon
The cave has broken off as far as i can tell.
Feb 5th 2021 Feb 5, 2021
Arief Nagara
Oakland, CA
  5.13 V8
[Hide Comment] First (?) trad ascent: youtu.be/7zF_w5fxB_A Jun 6, 2023
Salamanizer Ski
Off the Grid…
[Hide Comment] ^^^
That route has some serious ground fall potential…! Jun 6, 2023
JCM
[Hide Comment] Interesting historic note on the grade. Though generally described as V8 now, in the original formulation of the V scale it was listed as one of the standards for V7.
imgur.io/a/ema74CN Jun 18, 2023