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The Route Formerly Known as Face
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 30
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Routes in Upper Tier
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A-3 TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Chouinard's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Devil's Arete TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pebbly Face TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pie Crust T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Route Formerly Known as Face, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jim Thornburg, 2013 |
| Page Views: | 3,516 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Apr 6, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
This climb ascends the face just right of Chouinard's Crack (5.9+). Well, actually it traverses ~8' right onto the face just after the crack crux (you'll know...). After another 15' of face climbing, which gets continually easier, the holds run out and there is a brief stretch of slab before reaching a ledge and the final 20' to the anchors.
Protection
On top of the upper tier, there is a medium-sized tree. People used to top-rope off of this, but it called for a ton of webbing. Now you can use this tree to rappel to glue-ins just over the lip. Set your top-rope off of these!
Or, you can lead it: a couple of big cams for the crack and a smaller one for the traverse (something like a 4, 5, and .75), and then clip 6 bolts going up and over the face.
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