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Routes in Upper Tier

5.10 Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chouinard's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie Crust T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,990 total, 10/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 6, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

This climb ascends the face just right of Chouinard's Crack (5.9+). Well, actually it traverses ~8' right onto the face just after the crux of the crack (you'll be able to tell). After another 15 feet of face climbing - which continues to get easier as you climb, you run out of holds and have a brief streatch of slab before reaching the ledge over which your top rope should hang.

Protection

Far atop the upper tier, there is a medium sized tree near the center of the cliff, set your toprope from this. You'll need about 40' of webbing to keep rope drag to a minimun.

Photos

John Groh
  5.10+
John Groh  
  5.10+
seemed pretty stout for a 5.10... Nov 11, 2014
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
Jimi, I have dozens of 6" SS glue in bolts and Hilti glue allotted and set aside for restoring the junk that adorns many of the routes and anchors at Diablo.

Lets pick a day sometime in the near future, get a few people to help us out and go to town on that place to finally put that time bomb crag to rest.

We need to develop a solution to the rock scarring as well. I propose lowering all the current anchors below the lip that aren't already, adding chains if need be and installing TR set up anchors (above the edge) for people to lower over the edge for setting up a TR if they aren't leading the route.

Something needs to be done, because the current situation isn't working. Apr 11, 2014
jimi thornburg
  5.10c
jimi thornburg  
  5.10c
Added new glue-in anchor bolts below the top. Someone had stolen the hangers from the old anchor - that seems to be the sad trend at Mt Diablo these days.

The new anchor was placed well below the lip to minimize additional top-rope rope-scarring on the soft rock. This climb is a great lead, with a gear-protected crack start (the business section of Chouinards Crack) followed by seven glue-in bolts up a pocketed vertical face with a sandy slab encounter thrown in to add some adventure. A Diablo classic to be sure - just be prepared for tricky 10c climbing and PG protection. Apr 11, 2014
SF2Yosemite
  5.10c
SF2Yosemite  
  5.10c
Climbed the crack to the face and followed the bolts to the top. Enjoyable climbing in the crack and first 2-3 bolts then it gets pretty thin.

Seems harder than 5.10a. Probably key holds have broken. Very thin at the and sandy smooth at the anchors making for an interesting finish. Mar 13, 2012
vincent L.
Redwood City
  5.10a/b
vincent L.   Redwood City
  5.10a/b
There are now anchor bolts atop this route. I don't think you need 8' to 10' feet of webbing to avoid your TR damaging the rock. I used a couple of extended trad draws.

I believe that in order for this route to be 10a as it is in the SF bay area guide book, you need to start climbing out onto the face right next to the tree in Chouinard's crack. When you are climbing up the crack , there are some deceptive jugs out right before you actually get to the good rest by the tree. If you can send the face here , I believe it is much harder than 5.10 .

This is a good TR , there are no lead bolts. Nov 30, 2008
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
First time climbing on the upper tier not thinking there was anything good there. I was wrong! This climb is very good. The crack crux I felt is 5.9 for sure. It may get easier once you figure out the best way to attack it. I struggled a bit not using the right wall at all. I'll try stemming next time and see if this helps. The traverse right onto the wall is fun starting with the large incut holds. Quickly holds run out moving further right. I think the crux is making these moves to get past the slight bulgy section to where you start climbing upward. Good rock and fun face climbing follows all the way to the slab section which I climbed towards the left side. I would say this route is definitely harder than Amazing Face by at least one letter grade. And no, there are not any bolts on this climb. 3 good bolts on top though but you still need about 8-10' slings to clear the edge. Aug 6, 2007