PRINT: Rock Climb Squeal Like a Pig, San Francisco Bay Area

Squeal Like a Pig

5.11c PG13, Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
FA: Norman Boles and John Tuttle, 1992
California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > Mt Diablo SP > Pine Canyon > Deliverance Rock

Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.

Description

The right bolted climb on Deliverence rock, Squeal Like a Pig ascends a dihdral with very few holds and awkward stemming. Start at the finger pocket just above your head (unless you freakishly tall), and enjoy it, because its the best hold you'll have for about 35 feet. So to make up for this dearth of good holds, you'll have to stem your heart out.

The bolt spacing and location on this route is safe but still has a very spicy feel, and there are definitely areas where you would not want to take the fall.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. Top-roping Sqeal like a pig will probably cause a LOT of rope drag unless you bring about a 20' sling to hang past the slab near the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tyrone starting up Squeal Like a Pig

Looking down at Squeal Like a Pig (5.11c PG13) from the top anchors of Deliverance (5.12b).

'Squeal like a Pig' Route Topo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA

5.11c

The crux of this route was really fun, and I really like the rock of this climb, especially compared to all the other rock in Pine Canyon. This route takes all the balance required in not breaking the grips on other routes in Pine canyon, and actually forces you to do interesting moves.

What I didn't like about this climb is that the top anchor is way over the moss covered top slab. I think it should be bolow this, near the sketchy fifth bolt.

sketchymon. Too much moss on the top! The route kicked ass other than that.

Requires a little more flexibility than you need to climb a 5.11b slab climb.

The fifth bolt sucks! Sep 14, 2002

R Rod

5.11c PG13

I agree with above comment, awesome route but anchors are way too high over the lip and too much moss on the final slab making it precarious and a fall perilous. Nov 9, 2014

King Tut
Citrus Heights

Buwahahaha Squeal like a Pig. Sep 26, 2017

Lenore Sparks
Bishop, CA

5.11d PG13

Sick last mantle move on a slab. I'm DOWN with this route. Nov 19, 2022