PRINT: Rock Climb Special Effects, San Francisco Bay Area

Special Effects

5.10a, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 52 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Shady Rock

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

Fun route, just left of Slot Nose. It's a bit easier than the 5.10a rating, probably 5.9. Ascend using a nice, chalk-crusted hand crack. On toprope, it is tempting to go left, but the route stays right; just follow the bolts. The crux comes just below the anchor, where you ascend a "slot" similar to Slot Nose's.

Protection

Two bolts on route. Shares the same two-bolt anchor with Slot Nose.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

West Face of Shady Rock, CRSP. Photos by Morgan Brown. Stitched together with Canon PhotoStitch.

Don Simmons top-roping "Special Effects" (5.10a) on the west face of Shady Rock

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

there are sport routes around the back steep side of this feature, 10c on the left(big undercling/heelhook to pocket) there is an 11a/b further right with some cool moves, easy to toprope. Aug 19, 2004

Michael Hase
San Jose, CA

Solid route. Bolts and rappel rings are in good shape. Good holds once you pull past the crux. Jan 10, 2018

Cameron Cutting
San Francisco, CA

Stay right of the diagonal crack for more difficulty/ A better sequence Apr 22, 2024