PRINT: Rock Climb Slot Nose, San Francisco Bay Area

Slot Nose

5.8, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 47 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Shady Rock

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

This is the rightmost route on the west side of Shady Rock. Bruce Morris's guidebook has a good topo. Crux is just below the first bolt; a fairly tricky mantle. Climb left from the first bolt, up 5.4 rock, then ascend the eponymous "slot" just below the anchor. An arm-bar may be useful here.

Variation: From the first bolt, climb left and ascend the obvious arete to the anchor. Probably goes about 5.9. It's tricky to clip the bolt when leading this variation.

Protection

Two bolts on route, two-bolt anchor. Warning: one bolt has a rappel ring. Nobody likes to rap from one bolt -- can someone put some new hardware up there? I equalized the rig with a biner, but someone took it.

Protection update: There are two rappel rings, not one. (4/24/2016)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

West Face of Shady Rock, CRSP. Photos by Morgan Brown. Stitched together with Canon PhotoStitch.

Don Simmons tackles the 5.8 crux of "Slot Nose"

Taken by Morgan Brown from base of Slot Nose

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ToDoubleD Whitney
Aptos, CA

All bolts are in good shape as of today and the rappel rings are brand new. Apr 14, 2014

Mike D
Boulder, CO

5.8

This was my first lead, back in 1995. It's kind of a waste of bolts, but is worth doing if you're walking by. Dec 27, 2016

Michael Hase
San Jose, CA

Bolts and rappel rings are in good shape Jan 10, 2018