[Hide Comment] The crux was a dyno for me, it seemed that a few more inches would've helped a little... Still a fun move though, and a great hip workout. Sep 5, 2002

[Hide Comment] This is one of the hardest 11a I have ever climbed. The lower slab (10C?) section is very nices. The crux move is very boulderly. I did the undercling way. I think on-sighting this route may be difficult compared with other standard 5.11a's. May 27, 2004

[Hide Comment] Is there still a bolt route right below the observation tower? used to be 10a getting to the first bolt, then 8 after that. 5 bolts? 100feet. I heard rumor that there is a new bolt at the top.(#6) At the top, tip toe up ramp to the left. I tried to mantle straight over and took a big fall(before the bolt was there) Oops. wear a helmet if you think you might come off. Aug 19, 2004

[Hide Comment] This is a great route! Although many say it's a one move wonder I tend to disagree. The slab climbing up the face is rated 10c and I believe has two sections of 10c. Soloing up to the first bolt is not hard, maybe 5.9, with the last move to the bolt being the diciest. The moves past the bulge are well protected with a bolt. I think there are two hard moves here. The first is reaching the small 2-3 finger hole and the second is getting your feet over the lip. At first the reach seemed impossible. After thinking it out, I laybacked off the large left facing edge, moved feet up high on face below and was able to pull up and reach with left hand to the hole. It was a struggle to get my feet up as there is nothing but smooth wall to friction up. I really enjoyed this route. 11a is probably correct but it is a hard crux! Sep 29, 2004

[Hide Comment] The "crux" can be easily and safely avoided by going just four feet to the left, up and over. This is a much more natural line, though easier. But, hey, isn't a "route" supposed to follow a natural line? Apr 27, 2009

[Hide Comment] Ian,
I think a route is "supposed" to follow wherever the hell you feel like going. Mar 7, 2010

[Hide Comment] Agreed. And I definitely did not feel like tearing a tendon trying to crank over that roof when you can step 2 feet left and make a couple easy slab moves still well protected by the bolt.

This is a terrific route for CRSP if you skip the roof (3 stars, ~5.10c). The roof may be fun if you're up for it, but don't skip out on the route just because sandbagged 5.11a isn't your cup of tea. Mar 7, 2010

[Hide Comment] I wouldn't say this is a sandbagged .11a at all. There is basically 3 moves in the 11 range...I'd call them maybe closer to 11c/ V3 but you have that amazing rest and a bolt basically making it a top roped move. Getting from the 2nd to 3rd almost was harder with crap feet.

Sweet sand stone twist to slab climbing May 23, 2012

[Hide Comment] Great route to test yourself on - all the bolts are just below anything cruxy - on the 10c slabby section and the roof - no sketchy moves above bolts to get your heart racing. Can hang dog it and try as many times as you need to. Jun 1, 2012

[Hide Comment] Right!!!! My opinion is you'll know the 11a when you get to it, till then enjoy the 10c because it's good. (I'm not a sandstone expert but I thought the cruxes were great) Oct 19, 2015

[Hide Comment] heel hook the flake to the left, and crank! Jun 28, 2018

[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed climbing this (on a top rope). the first 10 feet are fairly easy with lots of pockets for hands and feet, then all of a sudden the hand holds disappear. I am not used to climbing on sandstone so I found the feet a little slippery but I eventually figured out the middle section after a few tries and it was very satisfying Jul 15, 2018

[Hide Comment] Crux feels much much harder than 11a to me. Maybe I haven't found the sweet spot, but to me it feels harder than Charlie's Angel or even Donkey Dong Nov 9, 2018

[Hide Comment] Really fun route, slippery on the way up to the crux but not too bad. The crux is tough but is truly a boulder problem. You can sit and rest at the base of it and look around for the best way over. I wasn't able to do it but had fun trying. May 13, 2019

[Hide Comment] No way the roof is 11a. More like 11c/d. Felt a bit harder than Donkey Dong. May 29, 2020

[Hide Comment] Use a heel Sep 20, 2020

[Hide Comment] Not sure where the heel is but the mono isn't that bad for a short people like me Jan 13, 2021

[Hide Comment] This needs one more bolt 12' up to be safe for leading. The first bolt is 20' up with no possible gear placements. Most people TR, but it would be nice to be able to lead it safely. Jul 2, 2021

[Hide Comment] Monty, retro bolting because YOU are scared is never the solution, respect the ground up tradition of the area and either suck it up or top rope it until you are ready. Jul 9, 2021

[Hide Comment] This a thought provoking climb. Whether or not your ego will allow you to accept it at 11a, does anyone know if the first ascentionist went right at the 2nd/3rd bolt into the big dusty brown lips? A friendly guide sending some kids up degeneration implied that they had not and the route originally went straight up, but I found this a little contrived after checking it out on top rope. Additionally, the first bolt looks high but it's fast and secure to get there. You should really be more worried about the next one... Oct 10, 2021

[Hide Comment] I feel like being tall for the Crux move made it considerably easier; and would agree the 11a/b grade holds for that height. I could see it being far more difficult otherwise. Jul 4, 2023