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Leading to Death
5.9-,
Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 2.2 from 116
votes
FA: Brad Watson (TR) 4/14/92 (Lead) 4/9/92
California
> San Francisco B…
> S Bay Area
> Castle Rock Area
> Waterfall Cliff
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Begin just right of the right-most arete on the waterfall cliff and climb up the slab to the first bolt. After the bolt, work your way up a dirty crack until it ends, and a steep 5.9 face awaits you. For more of a challenge near the bottom, a .10d variation involves starting on the slightly overhanging face left of the arete and going up to the crack. Only problem is that if you're up for a .10d, you'll find the remaining 55 feet of climbing pretty uneventful. This way you'll also miss the first bolt, so top roping is probably the best way to go.
Protection
Three bolts plus ~25 feet of 5.6 crack that you can protect with some small to medium gear.
[Hide Comment] Leading to Death has immediate exposure getting to the first bolt as as you traverse up and left the ground falls away! The climbing isn't difficult though.After clipping moving around left to the ramp is one crux. Up an easy ramp/corner for 15' or so to the steeper wall above. Well protected and not that difficult. You just don't really see what's coming up until you start the moves. All in all, a fun climb!
Sep 29, 2004
[Hide Comment] Nice route with all hard sections protected by bolts. The crack takes small pro but is usually filled with dirt. Used nut tool to clean some of it out before placing nuts.
Aug 8, 2011
[Hide Comment] Fun variation is to cros over to the top section of convulsions as soon as you can ( just after the cave/roof on convulsions) makes the top section a little more interesting for a second climb - works pretty well especially on top rope.
Jun 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] To set a top rope, clip onto the bolts for Degeneration, then to Putrefaction, before making your way over to the bolts for this route. Very exposed otherwise!
Feb 10, 2018
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 9/3/19. The quick-links on the anchor bolts look pretty rusty, but the bolts themselves are fine. Use caution when cleaning the anchor.
Sep 5, 2019
[Hide Comment] Note that when guided groups or classes come to the Waterfall, they usually set up top ropes on this route (and sometimes on Degeneration) and keep it/them busy all morning until noon.
Aug 15, 2021
[Hide Comment] This is certainly one of the routes of all time. I'd only do this if you're trying to keep your place in line for Degeneration. I had to do some considerable gardening to be able to place anything right after the first bolt.
May 15, 2023
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