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Leading to Death

5.9-, Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 116 votes
FA: Brad Watson (TR) 4/14/92 (Lead) 4/9/92
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Waterfall Cliff
Warning Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. DetailsDrop down

Description

Begin just right of the right-most arete on the waterfall cliff and climb up the slab to the first bolt. After the bolt, work your way up a dirty crack until it ends, and a steep 5.9 face awaits you. For more of a challenge near the bottom, a .10d variation involves starting on the slightly overhanging face left of the arete and going up to the crack. Only problem is that if you're up for a .10d, you'll find the remaining 55 feet of climbing pretty uneventful. This way you'll also miss the first bolt, so top roping is probably the best way to go.

Protection

Three bolts plus ~25 feet of 5.6 crack that you can protect with some small to medium gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rightmost face of the Waterfall Cliff area -- From left to right, Leading to Death, Putrefaction, and Degeneration routes are visible
[Hide Photo] Rightmost face of the Waterfall Cliff area -- From left to right, Leading to Death, Putrefaction, and Degeneration routes are visible
One of the anchor bolts, the right one I think. Hey at least there's two right? Haha
[Hide Photo] One of the anchor bolts, the right one I think. Hey at least there's two right? Haha
10 feet off the ground, just before the crack
[Hide Photo] 10 feet off the ground, just before the crack
Sallie high up starting the 5.9 steeper section.
[Hide Photo] Sallie high up starting the 5.9 steeper section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
[Hide Comment] Leading to Death has immediate exposure getting to the first bolt as as you traverse up and left the ground falls away! The climbing isn't difficult though.After clipping moving around left to the ramp is one crux. Up an easy ramp/corner for 15' or so to the steeper wall above. Well protected and not that difficult. You just don't really see what's coming up until you start the moves. All in all, a fun climb! Sep 29, 2004
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] Another OK route. Sep 12, 2006
[Hide Comment] Nice route with all hard sections protected by bolts. The crack takes small pro but is usually filled with dirt. Used nut tool to clean some of it out before placing nuts. Aug 8, 2011
[Hide Comment] Fun variation is to cros over to the top section of convulsions as soon as you can ( just after the cave/roof on convulsions) makes the top section a little more interesting for a second climb - works pretty well especially on top rope. Jun 1, 2012
Andrew Child
Corvallis, Or
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Lead this without gear. If you are comfortable running out on 5.5 trad its not bad. Oct 23, 2017
Corey Siegel
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] To set a top rope, clip onto the bolts for Degeneration, then to Putrefaction, before making your way over to the bolts for this route. Very exposed otherwise! Feb 10, 2018
George Labaria
Santa Cruz, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 9/3/19. The quick-links on the anchor bolts look pretty rusty, but the bolts themselves are fine. Use caution when cleaning the anchor. Sep 5, 2019
John F Kim
San Jose, CA
[Hide Comment] Note that when guided groups or classes come to the Waterfall, they usually set up top ropes on this route (and sometimes on Degeneration) and keep it/them busy all morning until noon. Aug 15, 2021
Eric Leonard
santa cruz
[Hide Comment] Right anchor bolt is now exposed under the hanger, where the rock meets the bottom of the hanger. (see photo) Jun 29, 2022
Salamanizer Ski
Off the Grid…
[Hide Comment] Nothing wrong with that bolt! Jun 29, 2022
Cameron Cutting
Mountain View, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Yes you can climb this

not much else to say Aug 26, 2022
Daniel Shahrin
San Jose
 
[Hide Comment] This is certainly one of the routes of all time. I'd only do this if you're trying to keep your place in line for Degeneration. I had to do some considerable gardening to be able to place anything right after the first bolt. May 15, 2023