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Burnt Muffin

5.11b/c, Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 15 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Muffins > Lower Muffins
Warning Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. DetailsDrop down

Description

Located on the center rock of the three Lower Muffins, Burnt Muffin involves a big reach to the left. Shorter people will have to be much more resourceful than their taller counterparts - as wingspan becomes a important issue.

Protection

2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, the first bolt protects the crux very well, so it would be rather difficult to cause yourself any harm.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top-roped ascent of the "Burnt Muffin" (5.11b/c) on the Lower Muffins, Castle Rock State Park, California
[Hide Photo] Top-roped ascent of the "Burnt Muffin" (5.11b/c) on the Lower Muffins, Castle Rock State Park, California
Burnt Muffin
[Hide Photo] Burnt Muffin
The Burnt Muffin is the climb on the right.  The top anchors are just out of the picture.
[Hide Photo] The Burnt Muffin is the climb on the right. The top anchors are just out of the picture.
Brad Watson beginning the initial lieback moves on the "Burnt Muffin" (5.11b)
[Hide Photo] Brad Watson beginning the initial lieback moves on the "Burnt Muffin" (5.11b)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] If you believe in your feet (smear), I think the crux move is not so hard.Send it! Sep 20, 2002
Nat Lim
 
[Hide Comment] Absolutely fun route with some creatively powerful and technical moves! Jul 7, 2008
Chase Horn
Los Gatos, CA
 
[Hide Comment] From how much work it took to clean, this route does not see the traffic it deserves. Well worth making the trip to the Muffins just for this little brute. Well protected, great movement on solid crimps and slopers. If you don's stick clip that first bolt I'd recommend bringing a pad for a little added security. Jan 3, 2018
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
[Hide Comment] FA: Bruce Morris 1992 Feb 12, 2018